Ari:
We kicked off Tuesday by loading up the bus and leaving Akko, heading toward (also known as Safed, Tzfat, or Zefat—take your pick). After some time on the road, klezmer music mysteriously began playing through the bus speakers, as if the spirit of צפת was already with us. Soon enough, the familiar “Neshama, Neshama, Neshama” echoed over the loudspeaker—Rob was on, introducing our plan for the day. He urged us to think outside the box, hinting that what we’d see and learn might be beyond anything we could’ve imagined.
As soon as we got off the bus, Rob’s prophecy was fulfilled. Right in front of us stood a large group of military-aged Haredim… playing laser tag. The sight sparked some frustration among much of our group, but hey—it was something nobody could’ve imagined.
After a quick laugh, we hiked up a hill to reach the ancient Crusader fortress—the
צפת Citadel. From there, we had an incredible view, not just of צפת, but also of Mount Meron, which we’ll be hiking soon, and even the Kineret off in the distance. Then we headed down into the old cistern, where we sang. Now, our voices already sound great, obviously, but with the echo and reverberation in that space… oh man, it was something else.
Before we continued, we stopped to learn about how Jews ended up in צפת. After the Spanish expulsion in 1492, many Jews sought refuge in the Land of Israel. While some tried to settle in Jerusalem, restrictions made it difficult, so a number of them went north and established communities in צפת. Over time, צפת became a major center of Jewish learning and mysticism, especially in the 16th century, thanks to influential figures like
Rabbi Isaac Luria (Ha’ari) and the rise of
Kabbalah.
Next up on our agenda was visiting a few of צפת’s historic synagogues. We began at the
Yosef Caro Synagogue, where we learned about Rabbi Yosef Caro, the author of the
Beit Yosef and the
Shulchan Aruch, foundational texts of Jewish law. From there, we visited the
Abuhav Synagogue, said to be designed based on the Kabbalistic teachings of Rabbi Isaac Abuhav. What makes this synagogue especially unique is that it has three Aronot Kodesh on the same wall—including one that holds a Sefer Torah made of deerskin, said to have been written by Rabbi Abuhav himself over 500 years ago.
The last stop was my favorite, the
Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue (האר״י האשכנזי), where we learned about Rabbi Isaac Luria, also known as the Ari. Centuries ago, he would lead his students out from this very synagogue and into the fields to welcome in Shabbat. That tradition lives on today when we turn to face the door during
Lecha Dodi, symbolically welcoming in Shabbat just as they once did.
At this point, it was pizur time! We split up into small groups to grab food and explore the shops. For me, that meant a tasty steak sandwich and picking up a new kippah—finally replacing the one I got from the front office back in 9th grade.
After pizur, we all regrouped for a music and meditation session with
Dandan, a local צפת musician. He played a wide variety of instruments, guitar, saxophone, shofar, seashell, Tibetan monk bell, and even a steel drum. It was awesome. We learned about the musical Shema Yisrael meditation, which involves repeating the words of the Shema slowly and intentionally. Then we sang a few classics together, like
Am Yisrael Chai,
One Day, and
You Are My Sunshine.
Then we made our way to the
Tzfat Gallery of Mystical Art, where we met
Avraham Loewenthal, a contemporary artist living in צפת whose work is deeply rooted in Kabbalistic teachings. He shared his personal journey with Kabbalah and introduced us to some foundational ideas—like the concept of transforming the desire to receive into a desire to give. We also learned about the importance of our Hebrew names, and how each one carries a unique meaning that reflects our spiritual essence and soul’s purpose. So please, from now on, call me ארי instead of Ari.
And that was it for צפת, a truly mystical day. We got back on the bus and settled in for a much-needed nap as we drove to our new hotel, which sits right on the Kineret. After the high of snagging the “good” bed wore off, it was time for dinner, followed by an hour and a half of
Schindler’s List. A heavy, powerful and meaningful way to end the day as we prepare for Yom HaShoah.
Wednesday started with breakfast at the hotel and a bus ride to
Kfar Kedem. In Hebrew, kfar means “village” and kedem means “old,” so we were headed to an ancient village from
Mishnaic times. But before we could begin, we had to be transported back in time. So, instead of Nike or Lululemon, we threw on a כתונת (ketonet) and a head wrap. We were ready.
The first thing on our agenda was donkey riding. We paired up in groups of two and set off—but unlike the camels we rode earlier in the trip, these donkeys had to be guided by us. For some, it was a breeze. For others… not so much. Noam and I quickly fell to the back of the group, thanks to a donkey after my own heart—she stopped for a snack every few steps.
Once our donkey fun was over, it was time to learn about farming and making bread during the Mishnaic period. We learned how farmers at the time strictly followed the agricultural laws set forth in the Torah—such as leket, the practice of leaving fallen wheat for the poor, and pe’ah, leaving the corners of the field unharvested.
The next step after gathering the wheat was turning it into flour. With a grinder and some serious elbow grease, we crushed the wheat down in no time. The final step before we could throw it on the fire was mixing it with water to make the dough.
Once we had the dough, it was time to throw it on the fire. After about a minute, a laffa-like bread was ready to eat. Unfortunately, I forgot about mine and ended up with something that looked more like shmura matzah. We ate our bread with some olive oil and delicious za’atar, but that was just the appetizer for the feast to come.
After quickly eating some pita and hummus, we were served a tasty meal of chicken, meat, and rice. Once we’d all finished eating, it was time to celebrate a special occasion, Nomi’s birthday! After a round of Yom Huledet Sameach, we hopped back on the bus and set off for Tzippori.
Tzippori was a predominantly Jewish city during Roman times, where Jews and Romans actually lived in peace. After the
Bar Kokhba Revolt, many Jews who fled Judea settled in Tzippori. One of the most significant figures to move there was
Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi, the compiler of the Mishnah, who brought the Sanhedrin with him and made Tzippori a major center of Jewish life and learning.
While we were there, we walked along the ancient Roman cardo and decumanus, basically the Broadway and Fifth Avenue of Tzippori. We arrived at a Roman villa with beautifully preserved floor mosaics depicting various Roman gods. From there, we visited the Beit Midrash (House of Study) where Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi and his disciples once studied.
Next, we stopped at the Roman theater, where, miraculously, there was still a show playing: The Golden Octaves. They serenaded us with a spirited rendition of Hinei Ma Tov! Our final stop was the ancient Tzippori synagogue, where we wrapped up the visit by davening Mincha.
By this point, we were all wiped out from a full day of history and exploration, so we headed back to the hotel. Some of us rested, while others got a second wind and played some ultimate frisbee. Then it was time for dinner and our evening program.
The program helped prepare us for Yom HaShoah. We broke into our Mishpachot and went through breakout sessions led by our Vaad Neshama. We ended the night with a Tekes, praying and singing together.