Neshama 33

List of 39 items.

• Monday, May 12

  Max:

  Today we had the luxury of sleeping in until the late hour of 7 before having, thankfully, one of our last breakfasts at Agron. Then we drove to a lettuce farm that grew more types of lettuce than I thought possible. When we got there, we were immediately put to work cleaning the pallets that organize the growing lettuce inside a sunroom of the farm that was akin to a sauna. After cleaning a seemingly endless number of pallets and being drenched in sweat, we were informed we had to move all the clean pallets to the other side of the farm. To achieve this daunting task, we came together as a grade and formed a giant assembly line across the farm. We passed the pallets down person by person and were able to complete our task just before our time was up.

   

  Then we got back on the bus and went to this indoor space next to Machane Yehuda that nobody really knew about. Inside was a kitchen area where we all put on disposable aprons and cooking caps to get in character for our lesson. Once we were all in proper attire, we met with a chef instructor from a Jerusalem culinary school who gave us a crash course on how to quickly and precisely cut with a chef's knife before we jumped into a whirlwind of cutting vegetables and making pita dough. Everyone was jumping from station to station to help out until we were somehow all setting the table to eat our food.

   

  The food was delicious, and afterward, we had free time for the rest of the day. I wandered through Machane Yehuda to pick up some gifts—and, of course, to satisfy my Marzipan Rugelach addiction one last time with another box. By the time I made it back to Agron, I was more than ready for a shower and a nap before our usual Agron dinner (aka Wolt).

   

  Later that evening, we had one of our final mishpacha meetings, where we shared photos from the trip and reflected on all the memories we’ve made. By the time we wrapped up, it was pretty late, so we all headed to bed.

• Sunday, May 11

  Koby:

  Our day started early on Sunday, as we woke up for breakfast, and then headed to Yad Vashem for closure on our Holocaust learning over the past three months. When we arrived at Yad Vashem, we split into two groups and went into the main museum, seeing the story of the Holocaust displayed chronologically, through a plethora of primary artifacts and quotes. The walls of the museum were full of information, helping create a slightly suffocating environment where you could feel the time period the museum was displaying. The approach our tour guide took to the tour focused on individual victims and survivors of the Shoah, telling us the stories of different people and their acts of resistance against the nazis.
  
  After our visit to Yad Vashem, we had a quick Pizur lunch, before going to the Knesset for an afternoon tour. In the Knesset, we learned about the basic structure of the Israeli government, including the way elections work, parties are voted in, and coalitions are formed. We got to see the main room of the Knesset where voting takes place, as well as a smaller committee room, where discussions on specific topics take place. We then had a bit of free time before dinner, and after we ate we had an activity in our Mishpachot in which we coordinated dances to different Israeli songs, and danced them out, with the Madrichim judging them and deciding which one was the best.

• Saturday, May 10

  Jordyn:

  After our intense Yam L’Yam experience, Friday was a well-earned free day! We rested, ate some delicious foods from Machane Yehuda, Ben Yehuda, and Mamilla - pancakes, smoothies, and so much more. We walked through the bustling streets, did some shopping, and enjoyed Jerusalem’s vibrant scene before shabbat started. 

   

  Later in the day, we came back to Agron to get ready for our final Neshama Shabbat. 

  We took pictures all dressed up so we can cherish our last moments in Israel together forever. Then we lit the candles and walked to the Kotel to welcome in Shabbat. The plaza was packed with people from all over the world gathered in song, prayer, and joy. The shabbat energy was absolutely electric when we were praying together as a group and when we dispersed to do our own personal prayers by the wall. 

  Dancing and singing together at the Kotel was a perfect last Neshama Kabbalat Shabbat experience - something none of us will ever forget. We then had our last Agron Shabbat dinner and Oneg shabbat where we sang our favorite niggunim and songs filled with Jewish pride. 

   

  On shabbat morning we had a pajama and cereal breakfast in the Agron Amphitheater and walked over to the park, enjoying each other’s company playing ultimate frisbee, card games, banana grams, rummi kub, and more. After, we headed back to Agron for Shabbat lunch and participated in a program led by Vad Neshama. We went around sharing artifacts and stories from the trip as well as looking back on our favorite pizzur meals. As we sat around the circle it became clear just how each of us and our love for Israel has grown. Then, we gathered together for a meaningful Shabbat Mincha reading this week’s parsha. 

   

  As Shabbat slowly came to a close, we met in the amphitheater for slow shira with Rob singing more of our favorite songs, a culmination of what we’ve learned from the trip and what we had known before. Then we led into Havdalah which was bittersweet marking the end of shabbat and Neshama, but also the start of a new week serving as a reminder to make the most out of our last few days. 

   

  We then enjoyed a Motze Shabbat pizzur dinner at Machane Yehuda and Ben Yehuda and headed to sleep to prepare for a great rest of Neshama.

• Friday, May 9

  Mia:

  Thursday marked the last day of our five-day yam l'yam hiking experience. We woke up in our tents for the last time and started the day with a breakfast of cereal and toast with chocolate spread. After breakfast, we took a 15-minute walk up to the bus and drove to our next destination to bike the last stretch of Yam l'Yam. Those that chose not to bike stayed back to learn about the events that occurred at the Night of the Bridges, to share with us later. The rest of us embarked on a 13-mile bike ride along the water, making stops for scenic views. We concluded our bike ride at a memorial, honoring the 14 Palmach members who fell on the Night of the Bridges. Here, our classmates taught us about the night of June 16-17, 1946, when the Haganah attacked 11 bridges connecting British Mandated Palestine to neighboring countries, in an attempt to gain back control. The highlight of the day was completing our Yam l'Yam experience with a meaningful ceremony where we poured water we took from the Kinneret on our first hike, and carried with us throughout the trip, into the Mediterranean Sea. This showed how far we had come since starting Yam l'Yam and we all felt proud for pushing through the tough hikes and freezing nights in the tents. We then took a fun and refreshing swim at the beach, followed by a complement circle, where each person received a complement from someone else in the group. After that, we had a delicious falafel lunch and a three-hour drive back to Jerusalem. Finally, we all got to take our long-awaited Agron shower. We ended the day with a pizur dinner. After 5 days of just oatmeal, salami and rice, I chose to have sushi at a restaurant near Agron as my first post Yam l'Yam meal. Overall, this was a fun and unforgettable day and one of my most memorable on Neshama.

• Thursday, May 8

  Abby:

   

  Vibes were still high as we woke up to our third day of Yam L’Yam, having spent the night sleeping in tents at the campsite. After waking up, we gathered the ingredients we needed to cook breakfast and lunch on the trail and headed straight into the hike, surrounded by beautiful greenery. The weather was much warmer today, but a nice breeze through the trees kept us from getting too hot.

   

  After walking a bit, we reached our breakfast stop. Each cooking group made their own unique dish: sliced apples with oatmeal! My cooking group (aka the best one!) created an especially yummy version where the apples were cooked with apricot spread and cinnamon, and we also cooked the oatmeal perfectly. In addition, we had a special treat courtesy of Eva, who brought waffles, and we cooked them right in the pan, which was a great addition!

   

  We continued hiking but decided to change things up by letting each mishpacha take turns navigating. Shaked’s mishpacha went first and had a bit of an advantage….a cow leading the way! We saw cows throughout the hike, which made it a particularly interesting and unique day.

   

  Rob taught us about the importance of being aware of our surroundings—something we often take for granted while walking. He shared a powerful story about three yeshiva students who were kidnapped at a bus stop while hiking. The IDF couldn’t locate them because they were unfamiliar with the terrain in the West Bank. When they finally asked local farmers for help, the students were found within a day. To honor that lesson, we did an activity where Yuval’s mishpacha hid blue trash bags, and each group had to find them and take a photo when we spotted them. Itai’s group went last and sadly only found two out of the four bags.

   

  The trail today was nice and flat, with music playing along the way. We stopped for lunch, and my group worked really well together. We made perfectly cooked rice with a stir-fry of salami, onion, and corn, seasoned with pepper and chili flakes—it was delicious! After eating, we had time to rest and lie in the sun, which was much needed.

   

  After lunch, we did a solo hike. Everyone had the option to walk alone or in pairs and reflect quietly. With beautiful mountain views and more cows in sight, it was a peaceful time to gather our thoughts and reflect on our journey of Yam L’Yam.

   

  To end the day, Rob treated us to a trip to civilization: the grocery store. We were able to stock up on snacks for the remainder of the trip! When we arrived at the next campsite, warm soup was waiting for us. We ended the evening with a beautiful sunset over the mountains and a cozy campfire—an amazing end to an unforgettable day.

   

   

  day 4: We woke up to beautiful weather and in great spirits for our final hike of Yam L’Yam! We hiked to our breakfast spot, where we all made yet again oatmeal with apples—still just as tasty as the past three days!

   

  This hike was a little different, as some parts of the trail led us through water, which was refreshing in the warm weather. At one point, we stopped at a water spot where some brave souls jumped in despite the freezing temperature—it was their first “shower” of the trip!

   

  For lunch, each group cooked their last meal. My group made salami with onion, garlic, and corn, served with rice. However, in addition to making our own lunch, we did a Master Chef challenge, where each group had to prepare a main course meal and a dessert, with presentation and taste as the judging criteria. Ravid’s cooking group took first place with an impressive stuffed pepper dish filled with tomato rice, served with cucumber-pepper salad and homemade tahini. Their dessert was caramelized apples. My cooking group made salami with orange jelly and spices, chopped potatoes with garlic and onions, and garlic bread. For dessert, we made apple pie with cinnamon sugar, inspired by Uncrustables, as there were two pieces of bread for the outside. However… we got last place! And the madrichim spit out our food BUT we at least enjoyed it, so that was a win!!

   

  The hike ended with a challenging uphill climb, but we were rewarded at the top with a surprise: ice cream and a stunning view of a castle!

   

  Rob then shared the history of the castle, built by the Crusaders and later controlled by Palestinians before the War of Independence. He told us about a Conservative rabbi from California who made aliyah and interviewed Arab mayors across Israel about the Jews. Some of them said that Jews would be a “blip” in history, like the Crusaders. However, Rob reminded us not to let people say that because the Jewish people are not conquerors—we returned to our ancestral land, unlike the crusaders, and thus no one can extinct us from our home.

   

  After this powerful moment, we got on the bus and headed to our final campsite, where we watched the gorgeous sunset and enjoyed a delicious dinner of soup, fries, and hot dogs! The night ended around the campfire or playing games—a perfect way to wrap up our last night of Yam L’Yam!!!

• Tuesday, May 6

  Josh:

  Our day started with a bus ride to pick up the people who stayed at Tel Aviv for the free weekend. After making this short stop, we headed north to begin Yam Lyam. What is Yam Lyam you might ask? It translates to “sea to sea”; a 5-day, 4-night hiking experience from the Kinneret to the Mediterranean Sea. After our long ride we ate lunch in assigned cooking groups. We were handed a crate of food with packaged salmi, corn, rice, vegetables, spices, and tea. With these items we turned on our gas burners and began to cook. Then we headed off on a 3-hour hike to collect water from the Kinneret and arrived at our camp site. Once we arrived, we played games, made a fire, and ate dinner together. We were all exhausted and headed into our tents to slumber. We had an early wake up and climbed out of our freezing tents to pack up and start day 2 of Yam Lyam. First, we made and then ate a delicious breakfast with our cooking groups and began our ascent up, into the mountains. The morning hours consisted of hiking, climbing, resting, and more hiking as we counted down the hours until lunch. Once we finally arrived at our lunch stop, we quickly and carefully began cooking lunch. After our much-needed lunch break we continued our hiking with a twist: walkie-talkies! Four walkie talkies were divided, each given to different sections of the hike. We would talk about what we would see on the hikes and crack jokes which helped pass the time. We stopped at a beautiful view where Rob told us insightful stories, and we had time to rest before finishing the hike and arriving at the campsite. Once at the site, we scavenged for wood to build and fire and ate dinner. We finished the day with board games and talking around the fire as we headed to our tents for sleep. Completing day 2 of Yam Lyam.

• Wednesday, April 30 - Thursday, May 1

  Jolie:

  We began Tuesday with a very early wake-up, then walked together through the Old City’s streets toward the Kotel. Upon arriving, we joined Women of the Wall’s monthly Rosh Chodesh service—a loud, joyful gathering where this feminist organization advocates for women’s right to pray and read Torah aloud at the Western Wall. Despite some criticism from Haredim women, our group remained focused and shared a deeply meaningful tefillah alongside dozens of other women. Next, we traveled to the Castel National Park, the site of pivotal 1948 battles. There, we took part in bonding activities that embodied some of the core IDF values—leadership, teamwork, trust, and determination—and learned how capturing Castel had kept supply routes to Jerusalem open even when other roads were blocked. For lunch, we stopped for pizur near Castel. In the afternoon, we visited the military cemetery at Kiryat Anavim: each student chose one grave to research and then presented that soldier’s story to their mishpachot, highlighting the personal stories of the War of Independence. We then hiked up Har Adar, climbed atop old tanks from 1948 at the summit, and painted stones to place on Har Herzl graves the next day. Dinner in Abu Ghosh featured fresh pita and delicious hummus, and we closed out the evening with a moving Yom HaZikaron ceremony hosted by Masa, where we heard inspiring stories of immigrants who had fallen in service to Israel.

   

  On Wednesday, Yom Hazikaron, our group went to Har Herzl cemetery with the freedom to walk around on our own or with small groups rather than together as a grade. We studied headstones to learn each soldier’s biography and spoke with soldiers who were assigned to be at Har Herzl, and they were able to elaborate even more on the stories. At 11am, we joined the nation in a moment of silence as the Yom Hazikaron siren sounded, and we listened to speeches by important Israeli leaders—including Prime Minister Netanyahu. Afterwards, we enjoyed a pizur lunch near Har Herzl before returning to Agron for a madrichim-run program on music and Yom Hazikaron: each madrich selected a song that resonated with them and explained its significance in relation to Yom Hazikaron. Following some time to rest, we had dinner at Agron. Though the Yom Ha’atzma’ut ceremony we were supposed to go to in Jerusalem was canceled due to the fires, we improvised our own celebration—singing Hebrew songs together and playing sardines—before heading to Machane Yehuda to experience the holiday atmosphere on the streets of Jerusalem.

   

  On Thursday, Yom Ha’atzma’ut, we had a later start and gathered in the early afternoon outside Agron for a relaxed barbecue. We grilled food, played various games, and took time to unwind and enjoy each other’s company after two intense days of history and reflection. After the barbecue, we had free time to explore Jerusalem and experience the Yom Ha’atzma’ut atmosphere. By late-afternoon, our program for the day concluded, and everyone set off on their own plans for the free weekend.

• Monday, April 28 - Tuesday, April 29

  Yaelle:

  We started off Monday by leaving the north. Neshama was very sad to leave the good breakfast and go back to our typical Agron food😂😂. On the bus we all slept as we had a two-hour ride until we reached Jerusalem. Our first stop was a funeral on Har Herzl. We were commemorating a soldier and a police officer who died in Gaza city. We saw the funeral of the soldier and it was a unique and heartfelt experience. It was really special for neshama to see so many people gather together in order to remember Ido Voloch and Neta Yitzhak Kahene. Afterwards, we quickly shifted moods and headed to Machene Yehuda for lunch! Yehuda (our bus driver) dropped us off right in front where we only had ten seconds to get off before he got beeped at. Surprisingly, we did it! Then we split into groups of four for lunch. I had Pasta Basta with my group which is a Neshama favorite! Then we met up with the Mechina and played our traditional “guess the song” game. The Mechina and Neshama were mixed and split into two groups, where we competed in guess the song. After many games, we walked back with the Mechina to our second home (aka Agron). Then we all gathered in order to teach the Mechina about college. Abby, Eva, Jordyn, Aly, Sophia and Alex planned a really informational talk where they explained what the college process looked like for each of them. They ended the talk by showing videos of college acceptances which made everyone on Neshama and in the Mechina laugh! After we split back into those two groups from “guess the song” in order to play family feud. It was a competition between the Mechina and Neshama over who knows each other best. It was a lot of fun to see the similarities between the two groups. Then, it was dinner time. Afterwards we began our walk to an event "United in Bringing them Home" to remember the six hostages who were murdered in Gaza a year ago. The Tekes consisted of family members of the hostages who spoke about their family members. Despite it being a bit challenging since it was in Hebrew, Neshama still felt lucky to hear the speakers. Also, we were able to join in on songs which was a very meaningful experience. Afterwards we headed back with the Mechina to Agron and went to bed. 

   

  Neshama and the Mechina woke up bright and early on Tuesday for breakfast at Agron. After a quick breakfast we headed to our first speaker, which was at Agron. The first speaker was Louis Frankenthaler who works at IRAC (Israel Religious Action Center). He discussed Israel’s social injustice and efforts the organization takes to help amend it. Then after a brief intermission a second speaker came. The second speaker was Debbie Zimelman. She is a professional photographer who just published a book on female soldiers in the IDF. She also brought another guest, Maya, a former IDF soldier who Debbie photographed, and she described her experience making aliyah and her time in the army. Sadly, it came time to say goodbye to the Mechina. We all gave our last hugs and thanked the Mechina for coming to visit us. Then, Neshama headed to lunch at Agron before our third speaker of the day. The third speaker was Yochi Rappaport who is the CEO of Women of the Wall, which is an organization that advocates for women to pray with a Torah and pray loudly at the Kotel. This was very important as tomorrow morning Neshama is waking up bright and early in order to be able to be apart of the women of the wall. Next on our agenda was heading to the Ammunition hill. Neshama said hello to Yehuda again and got on the new bus (the old one is at the mechanic🙁) ready to go to the hill. Here we had a tour guide who taught us about the battle that took place during the Six Day War.  Finally, again we were back on the bus and on the way to Agron. Then Neshama ate dinner, played a bit of Rumi cube and went to bed.

• Saturday, April 26 - Sunday, April 27

  Brandon:

  On Friday, Neshama woke up, ate breakfast, and hopped on the bus to hike Yehudiya. It's a special hike due to the refreshing yet challenging waters we encountered. With slippery and sharp rocks beneath our feet and cold water up to our knee, we supported one another the entire way. After hiking in the water, we continued hiking uphill where we were met with Northern Israel’s beautiful views. Afterwards, we hiked down to the waterfall with a freezing cold body of water to swim in. Of course, us neshamaniaks dove right in where we sang Acheinu, Hatikva as well as other songs under the waterfall. We dried off and ended our hike back where we started. After the hike, we had a pizzur where we enjoyed ReBar which we haven’t had in a while (we had it yesterday) and lunch. To cool off, we walked over to Tsemach beach where we laid in the grass, played volleyball, or went in the Kinneret. We had some time to relax when we got back to Achuzat Ohalo, however, a few of us played an intense game of ultimate frisbee. Around 6:30 we got ready for Shabbat, took pictures, and had Kabbalat Shabbat, where we were joined by Rob's daughter, Dalia and his son and law. We ate a special Shabbat dinner and sang songs together as one community. 

   

  After a busy and adventurous week, we slept in late on Saturday. We had lunch, said Birkat HaMazon and davened Mincha. After, we participated in board games, sports and a competitive Sheshbesh Tournament with Ravid as our winner. Later in the day, we visited the Kinneret Cemetery where students told stories of Jewish figures who were essential to the founding of Israel and its modern growth. A figure who stood out to me was Naomi Shemer who wrote “Yerushalim Shel Zahav,” a tune known worldwide tying Jewish people together in spirit and Israeli pride. We also learned a sadder story about Miriam Greenfield who dreamed of coming to Israel but once she made it it was hard to find a job and ultimately was starved to death. The moral of the story was that although we often romanticize the Zionist period, we also have to remember that a lot of people suffered hardships while being an exciting time to be in Israel. Afterwards we ate a delicious last dinner at Achuzat Ohalo and did Havdallah. 

   

  There’s something different about spending Shabbat in the north. It’s the beautiful Kinneret waters, the greenery and the breathtaking nature surrounding us, bringing a serene state of mind to the group in our last few weeks of Neshama.

• Thursday, April 24 - Friday, April 25

  Aly:

  Thursday was Yom Hashoah, so our activities focused on giving back to Israel and deepening our historical ties to the land. We began our morning by volunteering on an agricultural farm. The farm was founded in 2023 and mainly grows raspberries. We volunteered with a program called Hashomer HaChadash which is an organization dedicated to protecting and helping Jewish Israeli farmers. We weeded and covered raspberry bushes with nylon and soil to ensure they grew properly. While working, the siren rang at 10 am signifying to the entire country that today was Yom Hashoah. It was very meaningful to be in Israel for the siren as we have learned about it and watched videos of the minute-long siren throughout our time at Golda Och. Our whole grade worked in groups of three tirelessly for 3 hours! It was such a productive and rewarding activity; we all had a great time. We definitely channeled our inner farmers! Boxed lunches that were sooo yummy🤦‍♀ from Ahuzat Ohalo (our hotel) followed before our afternoon hike. Itai even bought us ice pops for our great work on the farm!

   

  The hike was in the Gamla nature reserve . Rob taught us the history of Gamla: it was a town on the side of a mountain named for its camel-like figure that was conquered by the Romans in 66 CE. Many of the Jews jumped off the peak of the mountain to spare themselves from the torture under the Romans. We discussed on Masada (a similar story) if their decision was the right one. Was it the easy way out or was it an act of pride that they loved Judaism so deeply they would not be forced to do anything against their morals? I believe it was the right decision to jump. These Jews knew they were sadly going to die either way. It was more important for them to die as distinguished Jews than be dehumanized and tortured by the Romans. Our group then hiked down the mountain into the city and saw a replica rock slingshot the Romans used and davened mincha in the same Beit Knesset as the Jews of Gamla. It was really cool to see such an old synagogue still standing in the abandoned city. The view was beautiful to see the greenery and mountains of Northern Israel. We marched back up the mountain and made it to the top! Before heading to the bus Rob pointed out the different kinds of vultures flying over the mountains.

   

  We arrived back to Ahuzat Ohalo around 4:45 with plenty of time to rest and rejuvenate before dinner at 7:00. Our laundry came back (ish) in the meantime. There were some mix-ups, but don’t worry we figured it all out! Dinner was so good as always from Ahuzat Ohalo. It was like a 5-star restaurant! They had two kinds of rice, a variety of protein (the fish was my favorite) and so many yummy veggies. Oh, and soup! Sorry, I’m getting carried away, but it was really good. To end Yom Hashoah, after dinner, we gathered in a circle as a grade and sang slow songs together. It is always so beautiful when we all sing Jewish songs (even if we don’t have the best voices). We finished the remainder of Schindler's list which was an emotional and impactful film for everyone. Personally, it was so moving to see the sights we visited in Poland on the screen replaying the horrors of the Holocaust. The movie reignited the feelings of sorrow from Poland but also helped everyone remember that being Jewish is a privilege and that we are so grateful to be in Israel together. Today was another great day on Neshama! There really are no bad days! 

• Tuesday, April 22 - Wednesday, April 23

  Ari:

  We kicked off Tuesday by loading up the bus and leaving Akko, heading toward  (also known as Safed, Tzfat, or Zefat—take your pick). After some time on the road, klezmer music mysteriously began playing through the bus speakers, as if the spirit of צפת was already with us. Soon enough, the familiar “Neshama, Neshama, Neshama” echoed over the loudspeaker—Rob was on, introducing our plan for the day. He urged us to think outside the box, hinting that what we’d see and learn might be beyond anything we could’ve imagined. 
  
  

  As soon as we got off the bus, Rob’s prophecy was fulfilled. Right in front of us stood a large group of military-aged Haredim… playing laser tag. The sight sparked some frustration among much of our group, but hey—it was something nobody could’ve imagined.

  After a quick laugh, we hiked up a hill to reach the ancient Crusader fortress—the צפת Citadel. From there, we had an incredible view, not just of צפת, but also of Mount Meron, which we’ll be hiking soon, and even the Kineret off in the distance.  Then we headed down into the old cistern, where we sang. Now, our voices already sound great, obviously, but with the echo and reverberation in that space… oh man, it was something else.
  
  

  Before we continued, we stopped to learn about how Jews ended up in צפת. After the Spanish expulsion in 1492, many Jews sought refuge in the Land of Israel. While some tried to settle in Jerusalem, restrictions made it difficult, so a number of them went north and established communities in צפת. Over time, צפת became a major center of Jewish learning and mysticism, especially in the 16th century, thanks to influential figures like Rabbi Isaac Luria (Ha’ari) and the rise of Kabbalah.

   

  Next up on our agenda was visiting a few of צפת’s historic synagogues. We began at the Yosef Caro Synagogue, where we learned about Rabbi Yosef Caro, the author of the Beit Yosef and the Shulchan Aruch, foundational texts of Jewish law. From there, we visited the Abuhav Synagogue, said to be designed based on the Kabbalistic teachings of Rabbi Isaac Abuhav. What makes this synagogue especially unique is that it has three Aronot Kodesh on the same wall—including one that holds a Sefer Torah made of deerskin, said to have been written by Rabbi Abuhav himself over 500 years ago.

   

  The last stop was my favorite, the Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue (האר״י האשכנזי), where we learned about Rabbi Isaac Luria, also known as the Ari. Centuries ago, he would lead his students out from this very synagogue and into the fields to welcome in Shabbat. That tradition lives on today when we turn to face the door during Lecha Dodi, symbolically welcoming in Shabbat just as they once did.

   

  At this point, it was pizur time! We split up into small groups to grab food and explore the shops. For me, that meant a tasty steak sandwich and picking up a new kippah—finally replacing the one I got from the front office back in 9th grade. 
  
  

  After pizur, we all regrouped for a music and meditation session with Dandan, a local צפת musician. He played a wide variety of instruments, guitar, saxophone, shofar, seashell, Tibetan monk bell, and even a steel drum. It was awesome. We learned about the musical Shema Yisrael meditation, which involves repeating the words of the Shema slowly and intentionally. Then we sang a few classics together, like Am Yisrael Chai, One Day, and You Are My Sunshine.
  
  

  Then we made our way to the Tzfat Gallery of Mystical Art, where we met Avraham Loewenthal, a contemporary artist living in צפת whose work is deeply rooted in Kabbalistic teachings. He shared his personal journey with Kabbalah and introduced us to some foundational ideas—like the concept of transforming the desire to receive into a desire to give. We also learned about the importance of our Hebrew names, and how each one carries a unique meaning that reflects our spiritual essence and soul’s purpose. So please, from now on, call me ארי instead of Ari.
  
  

  And that was it for צפת, a truly mystical day. We got back on the bus and settled in for a much-needed nap as we drove to our new hotel, which sits right on the Kineret. After the high of snagging the “good” bed wore off, it was time for dinner, followed by an hour and a half of Schindler’s List. A heavy, powerful and meaningful way to end the day as we prepare for Yom HaShoah.

   

   

  Wednesday started with breakfast at the hotel and a bus ride to Kfar Kedem. In Hebrew, kfar means “village” and kedem means “old,” so we were headed to an ancient village from Mishnaic times. But before we could begin, we had to be transported back in time. So, instead of Nike or Lululemon, we threw on a כתונת (ketonet) and a head wrap. We were ready.
  
  

  The first thing on our agenda was donkey riding. We paired up in groups of two and set off—but unlike the camels we rode earlier in the trip, these donkeys had to be guided by us. For some, it was a breeze. For others… not so much. Noam and I quickly fell to the back of the group, thanks to a donkey after my own heart—she stopped for a snack every few steps.
  
  

  Once our donkey fun was over, it was time to learn about farming and making bread during the Mishnaic period. We learned how farmers at the time strictly followed the agricultural laws set forth in the Torah—such as leket, the practice of leaving fallen wheat for the poor, and pe’ah, leaving the corners of the field unharvested.
  
  

  The next step after gathering the wheat was turning it into flour. With a grinder and some serious elbow grease, we crushed the wheat down in no time. The final step before we could throw it on the fire was mixing it with water to make the dough.
  
  

  Once we had the dough, it was time to throw it on the fire. After about a minute, a laffa-like bread was ready to eat. Unfortunately, I forgot about mine and ended up with something that looked more like shmura matzah. We ate our bread with some olive oil and delicious za’atar, but that was just the appetizer for the feast to come.
  
  

  After quickly eating some pita and hummus, we were served a tasty meal of chicken, meat, and rice. Once we’d all finished eating, it was time to celebrate a special occasion, Nomi’s birthday! After a round of Yom Huledet Sameach, we hopped back on the bus and set off for Tzippori.
  
  

  Tzippori was a predominantly Jewish city during Roman times, where Jews and Romans actually lived in peace. After the Bar Kokhba Revolt, many Jews who fled Judea settled in Tzippori. One of the most significant figures to move there was Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi, the compiler of the Mishnah, who brought the Sanhedrin with him and made Tzippori a major center of Jewish life and learning.
  
  

  While we were there, we walked along the ancient Roman cardo and decumanus, basically the Broadway and Fifth Avenue of Tzippori. We arrived at a Roman villa with beautifully preserved floor mosaics depicting various Roman gods. From there, we visited the Beit Midrash (House of Study) where Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi and his disciples once studied.
  
  

  Next, we stopped at the Roman theater, where, miraculously, there was still a show playing: The Golden Octaves. They serenaded us with a spirited rendition of Hinei Ma Tov! Our final stop was the ancient Tzippori synagogue, where we wrapped up the visit by davening Mincha.
  
  

  By this point, we were all wiped out from a full day of history and exploration, so we headed back to the hotel. Some of us rested, while others got a second wind and played some ultimate frisbee. Then it was time for dinner and our evening program.
  
  

  The program helped prepare us for Yom HaShoah. We broke into our Mishpachot and went through breakout sessions led by our Vaad Neshama. We ended the night with a Tekes, praying and singing together.

• Sunday, April 20 - Monday, April 21

  Cayla:

   

  I hope everyone had a great break! On Sunday, we welcomed everyone back from Pesach Break. The day began with a pickup in Jerusalem, followed by a stop in Tel Aviv to collect the rest of the group. On the bus, we caught up with one another, sharing stories from our breaks and reconnecting after time apart. Our first destination was Zikhron Yaakov, a charming town near the coast in northwest Israel. Upon arrival, the madrichim assigned our pizur goups, and we had time to explore the area and grab lunch from local cafés. Afterward, we gathered to pray mincha before setting off on a coastal hike from Hof HaBonim to Hof Dor. The hike was relatively easy and offered beautiful views of the water and rocky shoreline. At the end of the trail, we had some free time to relax on the beach and swim in the water. It was a peaceful and refreshing end to the afternoon. We then drove north to our hostel in Acco, where we enjoyed dinner together. The day concluded with zman mishpacha, during which we reflected on our Pesach breaks and shared stories from our Seders. 
  
  

  On Monday, we started the day rappelling at the Keshet Cave! Each of us descended about 27 meters down a cliffside, a nerve-wracking but fun experience. The process took about two minutes per person, with two people rappelling at once. After about two hours, the entire group had completed the descent. We then began the challenging hike back up to the bus, a steep climb that took roughly an hour and a half. Though it was difficult, we felt accomplished upon reaching the top. We ate our packed lunches and then heard from Ady, who shared the story of two soldiers who are memorialized at the site. Later, we visited the Holocaust memorial museum at Kibbutz Lohamei HaGeta'ot (the Kibbutz of the Ghetto Fighters), which was founded by survivors of the ghetto uprisings. Our tour began in the children's museum, where our guide spoke about Janusz Korczak, a Polish-Jewish educator who ran an orphanage in Warsaw. When his students were sent to Treblinka, he chose to accompany them rather than abandon them. His story deeply moved us and showed the importance of memorializing the youngest victims of the Holocaust. We then toured the museum’s main exhibits. We listened to testimonies from Jews who had survived by hiding in forests during the Nazi occupation, and we concluded with a segment on the Adolf Eichmann trial, focusing on the emotional and psychological impact it had on its audience and on Holocaust survivors who testified. Throughout the visit, our guide emphasized three core principles of Holocaust remembrance. The first was memorial: the need to preserve the stories and experiences of victims and survivors through institutions like this museum. The second was warning: the importance of recognizing how atrocities like the Holocaust can repeat if we do not learn from history, especially relevant in the wake of recent events like October 7th. The final principle was inspiration: the resilience and courage of Holocaust survivors should inspire us to stand for justice, empathy, and human dignity. The day left us with a lot to reflect on, both physically and emotionally. It reminded us not only of our history, but of the responsibility we hold in remembering and retelling it.

• Friday, April 4 - Tuesday, April 8

  Alex:

  This Friday Jerusalem was alive with the buzz of the Jerusalem marathon.  Many of us participated in the marathon, either through the 5k, 10k, or half-marathon race. Everyone who ran had an amazing time and felt a huge sense of accomplishment (and soreness for some). We could hear the runners and lots of cheering throughout the morning as the race passed right by us at Agron. After the marathon we had the rest of the day to explore Jerusalem in small groups before leaving for Tel Aviv in the afternoon to spend our Shabbat. On Friday night we went to a Sephardic synagogue for Kabbalat Shabbat services that was a quick walk from our hotel. When we went back to the hotel we enjoyed a wonderful dinner, reflecting on our past week and looking forward to arriving in the North on Sunday. We ended the night with singing at a joyful Oneg led by Vaad Shabbat and headed to sleep.

   

  After another busy Neshama week, we were given the opportunity to sleep in late on Shabbat morning until lunchtime. We made Kiddush and hamotzi before sitting down for our meal. After lunch we davened Mincha led by Josh. Celia, Aly, and I read Torah and Lilly and Brandon gave a Dvar Torah. We then took a short walk to the beach to relax and enjoy the nice weather and beautiful water. When we returned to the hotel, we had a fun program organized by Vaad Shabbat before eating dinner. After dinner we made a circle outside of the hotel for Havdalah to end our Shabbat together. We are excited to finally travel to the North in the morning and look forward to the these last few days before the start of the Pesach break.

   

  Sunday morning everyone brought their bags down to breakfast to check out of our hotel in Tel Aviv. During the drive up to the Golan heights the shades were closed as Neshama caught some z’s. We stopped at Har Arbel where the group bought pizza and snacks to fuel up before a challenging hike leading to a beautiful overlook of the city of Tzfat. The group scaled an ancient Israeli fortress that was used for protection from the Roman’s two thousand years ago. Inside the fortress Neshama looked through the same openings ancient Judean archers had used to defend their cities against invaders. The hike through the much greener north of Israel was a welcome change in scenery from the Negev hikes we are used to. 
  
  

  After the hike we had an hour in small groups to buy lunch for 50 shekels each in a shopping center in Tiberias. (I personally got a sandwich at Aroma). We got back on the bus and drove north to Kibbutz Gadot, just west of the Jordan river near Tel Hatzor National Park. We took two hours to move into our rooms freshen up and hang out before Mincha lead by Josh Raskin and dinner in the Kibbutz dining hall. 
  
  

  Later that night we were all called to an open field in the kibbutz where Itay seemed uncharacteristically angry. We were split into two groups and handed a cypher that translated to ערב צבא (army night) which explained why Itay kept screaming “YOU THINK IT FUNNY?!” and Yuval couldn’t keep a straight face. We managed to form a ח after 6 attempts and 50 pushups. Daniella learned how to call for attention to the מפקד (commander) and the rest of us learned how to stop talking for longer that five minutes.

   

  Monday morning, we prepared our least favorite meal - packed lunches, which usually consist of a chocolate spread sandwich and an apple. After breakfast we set off to a lookout where we saw the Lebanese border from afar and learned about Hasbullah’s relationship with the Lebanese people and the history of Israel’s conflict with Lebanon from a representative from the Alma institute, a research center that studies the geo-political situation in the north of Israel. We also heard from Itay about what his responsibilities were during his deployment in Lebanon as he shared a diary entry he wrote from his first day of his mission.
  
  

  We then applied what we learned on a trip to the Alma institute where we each took on roles of the Israeli parliament in a simulated government. We were presented with security issues and proposed solutions based on our department's responsibilities and expertise. We discussed with our departments what was the best course of action and voted on what should be done. After our simulation we learned what decisions, the real Israeli government made in the same situations and the results of those decisions. 
  
  

  We concluded the day with a short break for תפילה (prayer) in nature and a discussion about what gives meaning to ou

• Tuesday, April 1 - Thursday, April 3

  Marissa:

   

  Tuesday was another incredible day on Neshama! We started bright and early with a drive to Nachal Peres for a beautiful—but very hot—desert hike. The trail was just over four miles, and while the views were stunning, the heat definitely made it challenging. Rob mentioned that this might be our last desert hike of Neshama, which made the experience feel even more special.

   

  After our hike, we took a short drive to the Moshe Novomeisky Museum in Sodom. Those who stayed back from the hike helped pick up a delicious lunch of pita, hummus, falafel, salad, and fries, which we enjoyed before our tour. The museum was fascinating—we learned all about Moses Novomeisky’s Zionist vision to extract useful minerals from the Dead Sea and use them for industry. The exhibits were super interactive, with films, a VR experience, and even a fun quiz where we had to guess which everyday products are made using minerals from the Dead Sea. That part was definitely my favorite!

   

  After wrapping up at the museum, we got back on the bus and made our way to Kibbutz Kalya, where we’re staying for the night before heading back to Jerusalem tomorrow. We finished the day with a great dinner and then an activity led by Yuval’s Mishpacha, where we played Minute to Win It games and had a really great night.

   

  Wednesday was another awesome day on Neshama! We started our morning at the Ptil Techelet Museum, where we had the chance to learn about the ancient and sacred process of making the blue dye used on some tzitzit. We heard from a truly inspirational speaker who walked us through the history and meaning behind techelet—and at the end, we even got to see the dye being made right in front of us. It was such a cool and unique experience!

   

  After the museum, we had a quick pizzur lunch before heading out for a hike in Ein Prat. The trail was mostly downhill and super-scenic, and we were rewarded at the end with natural pools of water. Some of the pools even had fish that nibble dead skin off your feet—definitely an interesting (and kind of weird!) feeling.

   

  After the hike, a bunch of us grabbed ice cream and ice pops to cool off—honestly, that might have been my favorite part of the day. Then we made our way back to Jerusalem to wrap up another great day.

   

  Thursday was a big day—we had our first of three meetings with the Mechina at Mechinat Amichai, and the energy was high! We started with a long bus ride from Jerusalem to Be’er Sheva, where we finally got to meet the Israeli participants on their campus.

   

  We kicked things off by learning about what Mechina is and then took some time to share what Neshama is all about. After that, we jumped into a bunch of fun icebreakers, including a speed-dating-game that helped us start connecting with the Mechina participants right away.

   

  We had lunch and some chill time before diving into afternoon sessions. My favorite part of the day came next—we broke into small groups with people from both Neshama and the Mechina to talk about what being Jewish is like in Israel versus in America. We also discussed the impact of October 7th. It was eye-opening to hear their perspectives and to reflect on the different challenges we each face.

   

  Later, we had some free time to play sports—some people played basketball or other games, and I played volleyball with some friends.

   

  To wrap up the day, we headed to Big Be’er Sheva for a pizzur dinner. A lot of us grabbed pasta or pizza to carb-load for tomorrow’s big marathon day!

• Sunday, March 30 - Monday, March 31

  Emily:

  Sunday - After our free weekend, we all met back up and got on the bus, ready for another week. Our first stop was Dimona Mall for a pizur lunch before heading to meet the Hebrews of Israel. They told us about their unique lifestyle, which is strictly vegan and focused on strengthening their health and extending their lifespan. They also taught us some of their traditional dances, took us on a walking tour of their neighborhood, and even treated us to some surprisingly good vegan ice cream. Along the way, a few local kids joined in, which made the experience even more fun.

   

  After that we headed to camel riding. Everyone was excited to meet their camel, learn its name, and ride through the desert. Then, we arrived at Kfar Hanokdim, where we settled into our tent. Without cell service we learned to be present in the moment and connect with each other. We had a Bedouin-style dinner sitting low to the ground. Afterward, some people went off searching for scorpions, while others stayed back, playing games, listening to music, and just hanging out. We ended the night gathered around a bonfire, roasting marshmallows and singing. 

   

  Monday - The next morning, we were up at 4:45 AM to hike up Masada. We took the Roman Ramp to the top, where we watched an exciting sunrise before walking around the top and learning about the site’s history. After hiking back down, we grabbed a quick breakfast at the tents, then got on the bus and headed to the Dead Sea. We spent the rest of the day at Hotel Vert, where we had the option to float in the Dead Sea, swim in the pool, relax in the sauna, or just lay in the sun. most of us ended up doing a little of everything. By the time we got to Kalya, the kibbutz we are staying in, we were exhausted. We had dinner, zman mishpacha, and then finally got some much needed sleep.

• Sunday, March 23 - Monday, March 24

  Noam:

  Sunday started with the choice of either taking a bike tour around Kibbutz Ketura, which included views or the kibbutz’s solar fields, orchards, and the Jordan border, or going into the desert next to the kibbutz and creating pastel art of the landscapes. Following that we had a meeting with Lisa, a member of the kibbutz who educated us on the structure of the kibbutz’s operations and different issues that may come up to different committees. We had an activity where we were put onto committees and given a scenario —that the kibbutz had actually encountered— to resolve by putting to a vote. After lunch we had time to relax, go shopping in the kibbutz canteen, and socialize before setting out on a hike in the Nahal Kassui sand dunes. The hike was shorter than our hikes last week, and when we arrived at the dune, we had time to experience some of the finest sand in the world. We finished the day with dinner in the desert and sitting around a campfire.

   

  Monday started with a trip to the nearby kibbutz of Lotan to see how their community has embraced environmentalism and ecologically sustainable practices in their buildings and cooking. We had an activity where using the bricks made from the mud at their kibbutz, we could build an archway capable of supporting the weight of three people. After the kibbutz we went to Yotvata to try some ice cream, before heading back to Ketura for lunch. Then we had another choice of activities: either a tour of Ketura’s off-grid village, or a mandala dot art workshop. Before dinner we talked to a kibbutz local, Bill Slott and his experience with living alongside Palestinians in the West Bank, and then concluded our day with an activity to increase our bond as a grade, and a drum circle.

• Friday, March 21 - Saturday, March 22

  Celia:

  On Friday, we woke up early, feeling refreshed after a great night’s sleep in the tents, though the cold morning air made us shiver a bit. Excited for our final day of the desert experience, we quickly hopped on the bus. Once we arrived, we got straight to preparing a delicious breakfast of oatmeal. My group added apples to the mix, which really elevated the flavor. After enjoying our nutritious meal, we were energized and ready to begin our hike.
  
  

  The first part of the hike was a challenging uphill climb, but we supported each other, working together as a team. When we reached the top, the view was absolutely stunning. We played music, bonded, and enjoyed fun conversations along the way. We also played a game during the hike where a clip was secretly placed on someone’s backpack. If someone noticed it on their bag, they would transfer it to someone else’s. The person carrying the clip during a break had to sing a song in front of everyone, which led to plenty of laughs.

  Later in the hike, we took part in a solo hike, where we each walked alone through the nature surrounding us. It was a peaceful and reflective experience. Afterward, we gathered for lunch. My group prepared a delicious salad and a rice dish with onions and sausage. We also built a fire and grilled more sausage, which turned out to be absolutely delicious.
  
  

  Following lunch, we made our way to Kibbutz Ketura, where we were warmly welcomed with drinks and cookies, feeling grateful and ready to relax after a busy and rewarding week.

   

  Once we arrived at Kibbutz Ketura, we immediately began preparing for Shabbat. After three days in the desert, it felt incredible to shower and refresh ourselves. We then put on our beautiful Shabbat clothes and took some photos. Together, we celebrated with a heartfelt Kabbalat Shabbat, complete with singing and dancing.
  
  

  Soon after, we joined the entire Kibbutz for dinner. It was special to say the Kiddush and Hamotzi with the community. Following dinner, we had a lively Oneg Shabbat, where we sang more songs and enjoyed each other’s company. Afterward, we played some games before heading to bed.
  
  

  The next morning, we woke up early to attend the kibbutz’s Shabbat davening, which was filled with beautiful melodies and singing. We then gathered for a delicious lunch with the kibbutz community.

  The afternoon was free time, during which some people played games while others relaxed. We also participated in a powerful demonstration calling for the return of the hostages, which was deeply emotional.
  
  

  As Shabbat came to a close, we sang together and ended the day with a soulful musical Hav

• Thursday, March 20

  Eva:

  On Wednesday morning we left Kibbutz Tzeelim with bags packed in preparation for our upcoming days of hiking. We made a brief stop at the suspension bridge over Nachal haBsor, where we discussed the idea of "כָּל הָעוֹלָם כֻּלּוֹ גֶּשֶׁר צַר מְאוֹד..." and its relevance in our lives. 

  We then drove to Sde Boker to begin our first hike. After a couple hours of hiking, we took a break for lunch. We were split up into four cooking groups to prepare a meal with the ingredients we were given. We worked together to make dishes such as rice with caramelized onions, salads, and deli sandwiches. After cleaning up from lunch, we continued our hike until we reached the bus. During that hiking time, we did "solo hikes," walking separately to be able to focus on nature and our thoughts.
  
  

  At the end we had a nice long bus ride to Kibbutz Elifaz, where tents were set up for us and dinner was being prepared. We enjoyed dinner all together and got some much needed rest.
  
  

  On Thursday our hike was a little more intense. We started the day early and made breakfast on the trail. Throughout the hike we tried to keep our spirits high with songs and games. The day was filled with ups and downs, both in the hiking and in our feelings about it, but we all ended the day feeling incredibly accomplished. 
  
  

  For me, the most valuable part of this experience was the way that we all worked together, both in powering through tough trails and in cooking great meals.

• Monday, March 17 - Wednesday, March 19

  Katriela:

   

  On Sunday we began our final day of Purim in Jerusalem visiting two nursing homes, one called Kiryat Yovel and one in Talpiyot. We sang songs, talked, and played with balloons with the residents, and gave them the mishloach manot we had prepared. 

   

  After leaving the nursing homes, we walked past the massive Jerusalem Adloyada Purim parade. It was hot and sunny, and the streets were filled with vibrant floats, acrobats, dancers, and puppeteers. We had our pizur lunch on Ben Yehuda Street, which was crowded with people in elaborate and festive costumes. 

   

  Then, there was a shopping trip to the store across the street from Agron to buy ingredients for our barbecue in Gan Sachar. At the park, we played on the playground, took pictures, and cooked delicious pitot and burgers. Our last activity of the night was a birthday party for Oren’s eighteenth birthday, with lots of snacks and music. Happy birthday Oren!

   

  On Monday morning, we packed up the bus and drove to the city of Sderot in the Gaza Envelope. We began our visit by watching a film about the October 7th attack in Sderot, which focused on the fighting in and destruction of the police station, and the acts of heroism and bravery of that day. Our guide, Ari, brought us to the powerful memorials for the victims of October 7th at the former location of the police station and told us more detailed stories about some of them. 

   

  We drove to the Sderot lookout, which is also a memorial to four soldiers who were killed in a terrorist attack in 2014. From there, Ari showed us where we could see the rubble in Gaza and told us more about the lives of the people of Sderot regarding terrorism and returning to their city. 

   

  The final stop on the tour was at a playground, where we learned about the long lasting and traumatic effects of the rockets that have been fired at Sderot since 2001, and the attack on October 7th, on the children. This playground was unique. Not only did it have shelters, which are everywhere in Sderot, but it had shelters that were part of the playing. Two painted concrete caterpillars and a castle served as a place to play in addition to being safe places to hide in case of rocket fire. Seeing these made me sad, to think about the way these children have to be aware of rocket fire and terrorism from a young age but seeing the creativity and joy of these special shelters, how something that should be frightening was made into something fun, gave me hope. 

   

  After a pizur lunch in Sderot, we drove to a moshav called Netiv HaAsara, which is right next to the border with Gaza. There we heard from a woman named Rivka. She shared heartbreaking stories about the murders of members of the moshav on October 7th, including a close friend of hers who was killed in a shelter. 

   

  After she spoke, we visited the shelter where her friend was shot to death by Hamas, and saw the pictures and objects left there in her memory. We drove through the moshav, and Rivka showed us the homes where the murders she told us about took place. We reached the edge of the moshav, right near the border. There was a memorial for the victims, and beautiful “peace walls” where people write wishes on ceramic pieces and add to the mosaic, which we all did. Our visit ended with us singing Hatikvah under the tallest Israeli flag in the world. We drove to Kibbutz Tzeelim, where we ate dinner and would be staying for the next two nights. 

   

  On Tuesday morning I woke up and turned off my alarm and saw the message Rob sent us informing us about the end of the ceasefire. Although there was anxiety from this news, the group still had an incredible day. 

   

  We went to the Bedouin city of Segev Shalom, where a Bedouin man, Ali, taught us about the Bedouin society and culture, and especially about the family structures and hierarchies in Bedouin communities. We went into the city to volunteer, as it was Israel’s Day of Good Deeds, and to eat lunch. 

   

  After drinking tea, we went to clear out trash from where a building for the grandmothers of the community will be built as part of the work of the organization that hosted us, which we learned about more after an incredible lunch of Bedouin food. We heard from Amal Abo Alkom, who shared her life story and talked about the work she and others have done to further the education and rights of Bedouin women. 

   

  Our second stop was at a goat farm. We learned the history of the farm as part of a government project, and about what they do there. We had the opportunity to interact with the goat herd, and two sweet farm dogs, before tasting three different types of goat cheese they produce there. 

   

  Back at the kibbutz, after dinner, we had a talent competition hosted by Mishpachat Itai, which included interpretive dance, racing, and Israeli geography.

• Friday, March 14 - Sunday, March 16

  Ady:

  On Friday a lot of us chose to spend the second day of Purim sleeping in. For lunch, we went to the Shuk or to Ben Yehuda Street. When we came back, we all helped make Mishloach Manot by writing nice Purim cards to go along with the treats. After Shabbat candle lighting, we all walked to the egalitarian section of the Kotel to do Kabbalat Shabbat together, which was a very meaningful experience. Then we walked around the Kotel for a little while. There was a massive crowd there, and it was difficult to get to the actual wall. Despite being hungry for dinner when we got back to Agron, we had to wait a little while for tables to open up for us, but thankfully it didn't take too long, and we had a nice time together as a grade. After we ate, we all changed into pajamas and sang Shabbat songs together, and then we all created candy houses as part of the activity that Vaad Shabbat prepared for us.

   

  On Saturday morning the grade split into two groups. One group chose to go to shabbat services at Moreshet Yisrael at Agron, and the other went to Shira Chadasha. When we regrouped, we went upstairs for the first lunch not in the Agron dining hall, and afterwards we all rested and spent time together. It was very nice to get to spend Shabbat relaxing, even while we're not at home. Vaad Shabbat had us go on a scavenger hunt to different locations in Jerusalem, and it was special to get to bond with classmates who we might not generally spend time with. We all came back together and sang songs before Havdallah, and we ended the day with a Pizur at Ben Yehuda Street.

• Thursday, March 13

  Wednesday/Thursday is shared by Sol:

  On Wednesday, we had the opportunity to hear from two very different but equally impactful speakers, Bilal and Shaul from Roots. Both shared personal stories of their lives, offering insights into the intense emotions that come with living in such a conflict-ridden region. Rabbi Shaul Judelman, Root's Israeli co-director, spoke about the connection between fear, anger, and hate, which he believes fuels much of the conflict. While Bilal’s experiences were shaped by a more biased upbringing due to the second Intifada, Shaul’s personal trauma deeply affected his perspective. Both speakers opened our eyes to the deeply rooted hatred that has formed over generations.

   

  Later that day, we visited Yeshivat Har Etzion, where a rabbi explained the significance of Purim. He shared that even though God's name is not mentioned in the Purim story, God’s presence can still be felt. The rabbi used a glasses analogy to explain that just because we can't see something doesn't mean it's not there, encouraging us to look beyond the surface in life.

   

  We also had the chance to meet a friend of Rob, Shimon Palmer, who lives in the Tekoa Dalet Outpost. He shared the tragic story of how his brother and one-year-old nephew were killed in a terrorist attack. Despite living in an area considered an illegal settlement, he lives a simple life, growing olive trees and producing over 30 liters of olive oil last year. He showed us his home and explained his connection to the land.

   

  On Thursday, we heard from Yasmine, an Israeli Arab who lives in the village of Ein Rafa, who shared her experiences with Islam and what the religion means to her. She allowed us to ask questions and gave us a deeper understanding of her identity as both an Arab and an Israeli. To make the experience even more memorable, she brought out two baby lambs for us to meet—one was a brother, and the other his sister. I got to hold one of the lambs and that was definitely a highlight of my day. 

   

  We then visited The Benedictine monastery in Abu Ghosh, officially St Mary of the Resurrection Abbey, where a monk gave us a tour of the Crusader church. His beautiful voice and the stunning acoustics of the church created a peaceful and spiritual atmosphere.

   

  To end the programming for the day, we had a delicious meal at Abu Saeed in Abu Ghosh. We feasted on endless hummus, falafel, and pita.

   

  After the programming we went even further south to Lidor’s house in Moshav Mabuim in our partnership region - Merchavim, where we sat shiva for his younger brother, Liron. Lidor was our rishon at GOA last year and many of us built a strong bond with him. His brother was kiilled Saturday night in a tragic bus accident, he was only 17. We were able to comfort him and hear stories the family shared of Liron. I am very thankful that we got to see him and have the experience. 

   

  We got back to Agron later that night where we got ready for Purim and had dinner. Abby and I led our Purim experience doing Purim Shpiels in costume, playing a Neshama themed Kahoot!, and having Gamad V'Anak where we exchanged gifts. Our madrichim then gave us the true Purim experience by taking us out to Ben Yehuda . This was the best Purim I could have had.

• Wednesday, March 12

  Monday's reflection was shared by Nomi:

  We started the day with breakfast and a reminder to dress modestly, ensuring our legs were covered for the day ahead. We then boarded our bus to Gush Etzion, a region located in the West Bank, south of Jerusalem. Gush Etzion is a cluster of Jewish communities, and its location plays a significant role in the ongoing political situation regarding Israeli settlements in the West Bank.

   

  Our first meeting took place in Khaled Zakariya village, which is located in Area C, an area under full Israeli military and civilian control. We met Hamed, a humanitarian aid worker for the United Nations who lives in Hebron. Hamed discussed the challenges Palestinians face in the region, including difficulties obtaining permits for infrastructure projects like road paving. He explained that many Palestinians feel the Israeli military does not provide them with the necessary resources to thrive. As we walked through the village, Hamed shared his personal perspective on the political situation, including his view that Hamas is not a terrorist organization and his understanding of why the Red Cross could not intervene in the hostage situation. He explained that if the Red Cross had met with the hostages, it could have inadvertently provided the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) with information that would help them locate the hostages. Personally, I felt uncomfortable that Hamed, especially as a humanitarian aid worker, easily disregarded the hostages and denied the rape of women in the conflict. This sparked discomfort among some of us, but it also provided a valuable opportunity to hear a different perspective. I also asked Hamed if he is able to separate Israelis from the Israeli government, to which he said yes. This is an important distinction for Palestinians to be able to make, as not all Israelis support Netanyahu's government. At the end of the meeting, Hamed declined to take a photo with us, signaling that he considered meeting with a group of Jewish American students a risky decision, which we respected, since more extremist Palestinians in Hebron might harass him for meeting with us.

   

  Next, we met with Uri from the Sovereignty Movement at Oz V’Gaon. The Sovereignty Movement advocates for Israel to assert full sovereignty over Judea and Samaria, the term he and many Israelis use for the West Bank. Uri advocated for Israeli sovereignty over the region to ensure security and preserve Jewish heritage. He suggested Palestinians could be disarmed or live under Jordanian rule, voting in Jordanian elections. While some understood the focus on security, many felt the ideas were unrealistic and disregarded Palestinian self-determination. Some appreciated his stance, feeling more comfortable standing with the Jewish side of the issue. Others recognized that Uri’s ideas might be unrealistic, especially considering the complex and deeply entrenched conflict in the region.

   

  After our meetings, we had lunch in Efrat, a settlement in the Gush Etzion area. It provided an opportunity for a break and to reflect on the discussions we had just had. Following lunch, we visited the Gush Etzion Heritage Center, where we watched a film about the history of Gush Etzion. The film depicted the separation of families during the early years of the region’s establishment, with children sent to Jerusalem while their parents remained to fight. The story was emotional, but the uplifting portrayal of the new generation of residents in Gush Etzion was a hopeful conclusion.

   

  We then took time for Mincha, the afternoon prayer, and to our surprise, a cat appeared just as it was about to give birth. It was a light-hearted moment that brought some warmth to the day. We then made our way back to Agron, where we had some time to rest before dinner.

   

  The day ended with Zman Mishpacha, a family time gathering where everyone shared their reflections on the day’s experiences. Many expressed how the meetings had been thought-provoking but also difficult, each person processing the different perspectives in their own way. 

   

  We can only hope that, through continued conversations, understanding can emerge, and perhaps even a path toward a better future will be found.

   

  Afterward, Neshama members spent some time relaxing, playing cards, and chatting before heading to bed, ready to rest for the next day.

• Tuesday, March 11

  Adam:

  As the sun rose, Neshama resumed its programming. Everyone was either picked up in Tel Aviv, dropped off in Jerusalem, or awakening after a wonderful night’s sleep in Agron. For those who were picked up by Yehuda, our bus driver, in Tel Aviv, it was delightful to hear about everyone's weekend adventures.

   

  Our first activity of the day took place in Agron, a lesson on "The Many Faces of Israel". A significant part of Neshama centers on exploring the three primary Israeli faces: Jews, Muslims, and Christians. In addition, Rob reviewed general details, such as the West Bank’s geography, covering the various names for the West Bank, its distinct zones (Areas A, B, and C), and the Partition Plan.

   

  We remained focused as we gathered around the Agron amphitheater. Early on, we broke into our mishpachot to dive into discussions about Purim costume programming. Each mishpacha had to decide on its own unique theme. Amid the buzz, we were informed about the tight budget. This promises us days filled with careful negotiation and strategic planning at places like the Shuuk to keep our ambitions in check.

   

  Next, we headed to Mea Shearim, a Haredi/Hasidic Neighborhood in Jerusalem for lunch, which had plenty of kosher food options and Judaica goods. Many of us enjoyed pizza, ice cream, falafel, and a wide array of restaurants owned by the Haredi community. It was fascinating to not just learn about a community of Jews, but see it in person.

   

  Down the street of Ma Shearim, we ended our day by visiting The Belz Great Synogogue בית כנסת בעלז where we met our first, on this trip so far, Hasidic Jewish speaker, who shared insights into Haredi and Hasidic communities. His presentation, marked by his personal views on both Israeli and Jewish society, challenged many of us at Neshama, eliciting reactions that ranged from dissent, but for some, outright curiosity. Regardless of whether you agree or disagree with his opinions, it is essential to acknowledge and understand them, as they highlight perspectives that are deeply rooted in a community that plays a significant and integral role in Israeli society. I don't really agree with the Haredi’s opinions regarding the religious portions of Judaism and their solutions to it, but when it comes to the idea that Judaism is losing its defining aspects as it slowly fades away, I have to agree that it is happening, and something must be done beyond constantly reforming the religion, further dividing Jews into more groups. I felt honored and delighted by the respectful invitation to the Haredi synagogue, a gesture not often extended to non-Haredi individuals or “tourists” like ourselves. Afterward, we returned to Agron and enjoyed ample free time to process the information and prepare for the days ahead.

• Monday, March 10

  Nomi:

  We started the day with breakfast and a reminder to dress modestly, ensuring our legs were covered for the day ahead. We then boarded our bus to Gush Etzion, a region located in the West Bank, south of Jerusalem. Gush Etzion is a cluster of Jewish communities, and its location plays a significant role in the ongoing political situation regarding Israeli settlements in the West Bank.

   

  Our first meeting took place in Khaled Zakariya village, which is located in Area C, an area under full Israeli military and civilian control. We met Hamed, a humanitarian aid worker for the United Nations who lives in Hebron. Hamed discussed the challenges Palestinians face in the region, including difficulties obtaining permits for infrastructure projects like road paving. He explained that many Palestinians feel the Israeli military does not provide them with the necessary resources to thrive. As we walked through the village, Hamed shared his personal perspective on the political situation, including his view that Hamas is not a terrorist organization and his understanding of why the Red Cross could not intervene in the hostage situation. He explained that if the Red Cross had met with the hostages, it could have inadvertently provided the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) with information that would help them locate the hostages. Personally, I felt uncomfortable that Hamed, especially as a humanitarian aid worker, easily disregarded the hostages and denied the rape of women in the conflict. This sparked discomfort among some of us, but it also provided a valuable opportunity to hear a different perspective. I also asked Hamed if he is able to separate Israelis from the Israeli government, to which he said yes. This is an important distinction for Palestinians to be able to make, as not all Israelis support Netanyahu's government. At the end of the meeting, Hamed declined to take a photo with us, signaling that he considered meeting with a group of Jewish American students a risky decision, which we respected, since more extremist Palestinians in Hebron might harass him for meeting with us.

   

  Next, we met with Uri from the Sovereignty Movement at Oz V’Gaon. The Sovereignty Movement advocates for Israel to assert full sovereignty over Judea and Samaria, the term he and many Israelis use for the West Bank. Uri advocated for Israeli sovereignty over the region to ensure security and preserve Jewish heritage. He suggested Palestinians could be disarmed or live under Jordanian rule, voting in Jordanian elections. While some understood the focus on security, many felt the ideas were unrealistic and disregarded Palestinian self-determination. Some appreciated his stance, feeling more comfortable standing with the Jewish side of the issue. Others recognized that Uri’s ideas might be unrealistic, especially considering the complex and deeply entrenched conflict in the region.

   

  After our meetings, we had lunch in Efrat, a settlement in the Gush Etzion area. It provided an opportunity for a break and to reflect on the discussions we had just had. Following lunch, we visited the Gush Etzion Heritage Center, where we watched a film about the history of Gush Etzion. The film depicted the separation of families during the early years of the region’s establishment, with children sent to Jerusalem while their parents remained to fight. The story was emotional, but the uplifting portrayal of the new generation of residents in Gush Etzion was a hopeful conclusion.

   

  We then took time for Mincha, the afternoon prayer, and to our surprise, a cat appeared just as it was about to give birth. It was a light-hearted moment that brought some warmth to the day. We then made our way back to Agron, where we had some time to rest before dinner.

   

  The day ended with Zman Mishpacha, a family time gathering where everyone shared their reflections on the day’s experiences. Many expressed how the meetings had been thought-provoking but also difficult, each person processing the different perspectives in their own way. 

   

  We can only hope that, through continued conversations, understanding can emerge, and perhaps even a path toward a better future will be found.

   

  Afterward, Neshama members spent some time relaxing, playing cards, and chatting before heading to bed, ready to rest for the next day.

• Sunday, March 9

  Adam:

  As the sun rose, Neshama resumed its programming. Everyone was either picked up in Tel Aviv, dropped off in Jerusalem, or awakening after a wonderful night’s sleep in Agron. For those who were picked up by Yehuda, our bus driver, in Tel Aviv, it was delightful to hear about everyone's weekend adventures.

   

  Our first activity of the day took place in Agron, a lesson on "The Many Faces of Israel". A significant part of Neshama centers on exploring the three primary Israeli faces: Jews, Muslims, and Christians. In addition, Rob reviewed general details, such as the West Bank’s geography, covering the various names for the West Bank, its distinct zones (Areas A, B, and C), and the Partition Plan.

   

  We remained focused as we gathered around the Agron amphitheater. Early on, we broke into our mishpachot to dive into discussions about Purim costume programming. Each mishpacha had to decide on its own unique theme. Amid the buzz, we were informed about the tight budget. This promises us days filled with careful negotiation and strategic planning at places like the Shuuk to keep our ambitions in check.

   

  Next, we headed to Mea Shearim, a Haredi/Hasidic Neighborhood in Jerusalem for lunch, which had plenty of kosher food options and Judaica goods. Many of us enjoyed pizza, ice cream, falafel, and a wide array of restaurants owned by the Haredi community. It was fascinating to not just learn about a community of Jews, but see it in person.

   

  Down the street of Ma Shearim, we ended our day by visiting The Belz Great Synogogue בית כנסת בעלז where we met our first, on this trip so far, Hasidic Jewish speaker, who shared insights into Haredi and Hasidic communities. His presentation, marked by his personal views on both Israeli and Jewish society, challenged many of us at Neshama, eliciting reactions that ranged from dissent, but for some, outright curiosity. Regardless of whether you agree or disagree with his opinions, it is essential to acknowledge and understand them, as they highlight perspectives that are deeply rooted in a community that plays a significant and integral role in Israeli society. I don't really agree with the Haredi’s opinions regarding the religious portions of Judaism and their solutions to it, but when it comes to the idea that Judaism is losing its defining aspects as it slowly fades away, I have to agree that it is happening, and something must be done beyond constantly reforming the religion, further dividing Jews into more groups. I felt honored and delighted by the respectful invitation to the Haredi synagogue, a gesture not often extended to non-Haredi individuals or “tourists” like ourselves. Afterward, we returned to Agron and enjoyed ample free time to process the information and prepare for the days ahead.

• Wednesday, March 5 & Thursday, March 6

  Matt:

   

  We remained busy as we wrapped up our final days in Tel Aviv. Wednesday morning, we got on the bus to the Florentine Neighborhood in Tel Aviv. After meeting with our tour guide, we went to see and hear about the graffiti covering walls throughout the community. We saw a somber mural created just a few days ago memorializing the Bibas family. While learning about Florentine’s graffiti history we kept our eyes open for the fourteen hidden bears attached to buildings trying to find them all. Although we missed a few we saw many interesting pieces of art along the way.

   

  Next, we headed to Rabin Square, where we learned about the tragic assassination of Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin. Rabin had signed a controversial deal in his pursuit of peace, leading to an increase in terror attacks and protests. An Israeli struck down Rabin after a peace rally, leaving his work unfinished. We gathered around Kikar Rabin to reflect on Rabin's legacy and his hope for peace.

   

  We visited Kikar haChatufim, Hostage Square, where a seder table is set up for all the hostages. We walked through a mock Hamas tunnel where we were able to glimpse at the harsh conditions that the hostages were kept in. Afterwards we sang Acheinu and Hatikvah.

   

  For lunch we traveled to Sarona Market, a large food court with a wide variety of options. Afterwards we went to have fun on the beach. It was a relaxing grade bonding activity.

  After dinner we had the opportunity to hear from a panel of alumni. Each had a unique story to share about their experience about living in Israel and were happy to share. It was interesting what had motivated them to make this decision and what they have struggled with.

   

  Today (Thursday) was an early wake up. We visited the ANU Museum of the Jewish People. There we learned about our history throughout the ages. Getting such a wide perspective of how many different time periods there were, demonstrated the resilience of the Jewish People. Next up was the Olympics Experience Exhibit. It was an interactive experience information being conveyed in a movie that played throughout each room. We learned about the origin of the Olympics and Israelis that have won medals in their respective sports. Additionally, we learned about the horrific terror attack during the 1972 Summer Olympics, where several Israeli athletes were murdered.

   

  Finally we rode bikes around Park Hayarkon and went on a bike tour to Port Tel Aviv.
  
  

  As we made our way back to Jerusalem, we began saying goodbye to our friends as they left for their free weekends. We have had an eventful couple days and we are all looking forward to sending shabbat with our families.

• Tuesday, March 4

  Rachel:

  We began today with breakfast in our hotel, as we do every day, and then headed out to meet our tour guide for our tour of South Tel Aviv. We visited parts of Tel Aviv that had a more suburban feel—areas with no tall buildings, open spaces, and quiet streets. The tour guide shared that this part of Tel Aviv was once home to many refugees, but today it is a neighborhood undergoing change with young people moving in as well. Along the way, Kim and Omer, our rishonim, joined us on the tour since they are back in Israel for a week.

  After exploring the area, we visited the Bina Mechina, where we participated in a discussion about the extent to which Israel should welcome immigrants. We talked about how, during the Holocaust, Jews had no designated safe place to go, so Israel should be a refuge for people in need today. We also discussed a verse from the Bible: “The stranger who resides with you shall be to you as one of your citizens; you shall love him as yourself, for you were strangers in the land of Egypt” (Leviticus 19:33). This passage encourages compassion and empathy for those who seek a better life, a lesson that resonates deeply in today’s global context. However, we also considered the challenges of an open border, acknowledging that Israel must balance welcoming newcomers with the responsibility of prioritizing the needs and safety of its own citizens.

   

  Following the discussion, we had the privilege of hearing from Adam, an African refugee who came to Israel in 2008. He shared his incredible journey of leaving his homeland, traveling through Egypt, and eventually reaching Israel. Adam spoke about his life in Israel and the support he has received in transitioning to a new life, highlighting the opportunities and challenges of building a new home in a foreign country.

  Next, we visited Shuk HaCarmel, a bustling marketplace filled with an array of sights and sounds. People enjoyed schnitzel sandwiches, malawach, and other traditional Israeli foods. The market also had a wide range of shops selling jewelry, t-shirts, and various souvenirs. It was a vibrant and lively place to explore, offering a real taste of local culture.

   

  We wrapped up the day with dinner back at the hotel, followed by an intense game of musical chairs. It was a fun way to end an enriching and thought-provoking day.

• Monday, March 3

  Rachel:

  Today marked our first day outside of Jerusalem since arriving in Israel. We traveled down to the area of the Gaza envelope. When we arrived at our first stop, Kibbutz Kfar Aza, the sky was bright blue, and the weather was perfect. Yet, this peaceful setting contrasted sharply with the horrors we witnessed at the kibbutz. This kibbutz was one of the first to be attacked by Hamas on October 7. Over 60 residents were killed and 19 were taken hostage.

   

  Shahar, one of the three remaining residents of Kfar Aza, guided us through the destruction of the Kibbutz. Each house which was destroyed was now marked with spray painted symbols. One symbol was the number of bodies found, and if it had a large "C" on it, it meant that soldiers had “cleared” it of any human remains or bombs. Every home was in ruins. Outside on the front yards, amidst the rubble and devastation, we saw children's bicycles. I found it difficult to comprehend how a place that once thrived was now reduced to destruction.

   

  Shahar shared with us his experience of returning to his kibbutz after the attack, and as I stood on the same ground, I couldn’t help but imagine the horrors that had unfolded there. The grass beneath my feet, the flowers around me—these had once been the scene of unimaginable violence. We were allowed to enter a few of the homes where residents were killed. Inside, the damage was overwhelming—bullet holes and remnants of grenades scarred the walls. Yet, despite the destruction, some personal items were untouched: dish soap still on the sink, clothes scattered across the floor, sneakers placed by the door. It felt incredibly real to see items I recognized, like Nike shoes and books I have in my bookshelf at home, left behind, frozen in time since October 7.

   

  In one house, a detail caught my eye: a poster of a screenshot of a final conversation between a victim and her mother. The victim’s last words—"Mom, I hear them"—are seared into my memory. Almost every home displayed signs detailing whether the residents were brutally murdered or taken hostage. Walking through the rows of houses felt raw, as so much of the kibbutz was left untouched since the attack.

   

  Our tour concluded with us stopping at the bottom of the kibbutz right next to the Gaza border, where we looked out towards Gaza City. Standing so close to the border, I began to understand how easily Hamas had infiltrated the area. By the end of the tour, my emotions were all over the place. I felt nauseous, heartbroken, disgusted, and other feelings which I cannot describe in words.

   

  Next, we visited the site of the Nova Festival, where memorials for the murdered victims were attached to poles throughout the area where the concert took place and where the victims were savagely attacked. Each memorial featured a photo and a brief description of the individual, often written by family or friends. I read their stories, each one giving me a glimpse into the person was. Learning about each victim—who they were, their passions, and their dreams—brought them to life. These memorials were heart wrenching and yet they also described the victims’ love for life. 

   

  Afterwards, we davened Mincha and finished by singing Hatikva. The song brought tears to our eyes. It was a powerful reminder of the strength of the Jewish people.

   

  We then visited the bomb shelters where people fled during the festival. The shelters, small and crowded, were suffocating with just ten of us inside, even though they had sheltered thirty people on October 7. Now, they serve as memorials, adorned with photos and candles. 

   

  Our final stop was a site filled with destroyed cars, abandoned by people fleeing Hamas. It was shocking to see some of these cars, with the personal belongings still inside. However, most of the cars were brown because they were burned beyond recognition. It was a stark reminder of the chaos that unfolded that day.

   

  As we boarded the bus to continue on to Tel Aviv, people were largely silent, processing what they had just witnessed.

• Sunday, March 2

  Maya:

   

  To conclude Neshama’s first week in Israel, the group woke up early to embark on our first hike (Shvil Ha'Ma'ayanot). We journeyed through the Jerusalem Hills, navigating grassy, mountainous terrain, all while taking in the breathtaking views of both the city of Jerusalem and its surrounding forests. The group paused at a refreshing spring, where some jumped into the cool waters, while others danced to music played from a classmate’s speaker. The hike provided a wonderful opportunity to bond with fellow classmates, whether it was offering a hand to help someone up a steep rock or singing together to lift each other's spirits—an experience that truly encapsulated the essence of Neshama: cultivating a supportive and caring community. At the end of our adventure, the group was tasked with preparing a barbecue lunch. Dividing into various roles—fire starters, grillers, salad makers, burger seasoners, pita cookers, and more—everyone had a chance to contribute their skills toward the collective goal of creating a delicious meal. After enjoying a satisfying lunch of hamburgers, pita, salad, and spreads, we made our way back to Agron to prepare for Shabbat. Neshama welcomed the day of rest with Kabbalat Shabbat songs, a festive meal, games, and a peaceful night’s sleep.

   

  Following a restful night, the group gathered for a delicious Shabbat lunch before heading out for Mincha prayer, accompanied by a thoughtful reflection on our journey in the Dvar Torah. Afterward, we walked to a nearby park (Liberty Bell Park - Gan HaPa'amon), where we enjoyed snacks, played sports, and spent time relaxing together. With a well-planned itinerary for Shabbat, Vad Neshama led a program to help us reflect on and prepare for our visit to the Nova Festival site. It was deeply moving to hear the personal stories of those lost on October 7th, especially those connected to our classmates. The evening continued with laughter and joy as we sang and swayed during Havdalah, before enjoying dinner on the lively and vibrant Ben Yehuda Street.

   

  As we reflect on our first Shabbat in Israel, Neshama, this trip has been a beautiful reminder of how shared experiences, both challenging and joyful, create lasting bonds within a community. From the hike through the Jerusalem Hills to the laughter and teamwork around the barbecue, every moment has deepened our connection to one another. We have begun to understand the true essence of Neshama—not just as a group of individuals, but as a collective, supportive family, united in our journey. As we continue to explore and grow together, the memories we've made during this first week will serve as a foundation for the strong relationships and meaningful experiences that lie ahead.

• Thursday, February 27

  Sophia:
  Another day, another Kotel visit! It’s crazy we are living a 15-minute walk from the holiest place of the Jewish people. But this time, rather than pray to the wall we took the guarded up wooden walkway up to the Temple Mount (Hiram al Sharif). Not to mention…we had a very special visitor Mr. Grossman!! It was so great to see him, and I truly think he was deeply touched that with being in Israel now, we all appreciate his Modern Israel class soooo much and how well he had prepared us. So here we were on the top of the Temple Mount where the second temple stood dating all the way back to 70 CE! (Rob has engraved random dates I never thought I would know in our minds) Today, the Dome of the Rock stands in essentially the same spot as the second temple, and even though we could not go inside to see the rock that “began the world” (or was maybe the almost-place Issac for sacrificed by Abraham), we appreciated the history from afar. Rob made a good point—how could we learn all about Christianity and not about Islam? So today was the day to even out the playing grounds. We learned about the Al Aqsa Mosque, and why we shouldn’t be seen with Kippot or siddurs after the early 2000’s with the whole Ariel Sharon incident. We also spoke about the political religious war that is ongoing. Everyone is trying to one up each other, like how the Dome of the Rock is built on top of the second temple ruins where now the Jewish sanctity of the place cannot longer be upheld. I found it interesting to learn about this, especially in the midst of war in Israel where everything is political! No matter how antisemitic riots or vandalism or other’s actions may be, I feel like it is all now categorized as political and under this general umbrella that in a way undermines the severity. But once again, Rob’s gift worked his magic and every word that came out of his mouth is now stored somewhere in my brain! Maybe to be shared again or maybe just to have. If anyone reading this has any other questions feel free to reach out, I would love to share more! 

   

  Anyhow, we then met Sister Margaret!! I was only slightly expected a full nun outfit, but she really solidified this connection between Christianity and Judaism and how not only do they feel like branches of the same tree but can co-exist and even support each other! Another lunch pizzur, and a visit to The Temple Institue, a group of Jews who want to build a third temple, and then it was free time (Aka nap time)!

  Sophia:

  These days have gone by relatively fast but also slow. I wanted to quickly mention a spontaneous speaker we had in the Jewish quarter yesterday. While we were sitting, a Jewish woman who made Aliyah was so excited to see a group of American tourists that she spoke to our group about her experience moving to Israel from Detroit and her processing the war. This is what Neshama is all about: getting the authentic Israeli experience and learning how important Israel is to not only the Jewish people but each and every individual. Whenever someone asks, I always forget we are only on our first week in Israel. My legs are now sore, and my brain is filled to the brim and my soul—or Neshama—is slowly feeling a shift. I’m not exactly sure what it is yet, but I can’t wait to find out!

• Wednesday, February 26

  Sophia:
  It’s crazy to write about these days so casually, like here we just walked to the kotel or there we went to the most sacred place for Christian’s in literally the whole world. But that is in fact what our day consisted of. We started with an emotional and spiritual morning at the kotel, leaving notes and prayers to bring the wall back to life. After a delicious pizzur in the Jewish quarter filled with bargaining for shawafel (shawarma + falafel) and rebar smoothies, we were off to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Like I mentioned earlier, it’s a surreal feeling to be in this sacred place to the largest religion in the world just walking around on a tour. I had no idea there are over 250 sects of Christianity in the world! A memorable thing Rob told us was that because the religion is so vast and diverse; they had to essentially section off parts of this massive church to represent everyone. This dispute is rooted so deeply that Muslims have the key to the church! So anyway, we learned in even more depth about this religion and really how closely connected we are to them—like how the wafers and wine that represents Jesus’s body in Christian tradition come from a Passover seder of matzah and wine! I honestly felt enlightened. Although this place was filled with things I did not believe in or agree with, it was easy to understand where they came from and appreciate the sanctity of this beautiful and grand church. After a heavy day of learning and walking, the rest of the day was pretty chill and a good time to catch up on some sleep most neshaminks have been waiting for! 

• Tuesday, February 25

  Sophia:

   

  I want to start off by saying that even though I’ve been on this trip for almost 2 weeks now, today felt like the first REAL day of Neshama. Let me explain: these past few weeks have literally changed my life and perspective on the Jewish world and my own personal Jewish identity. Yet I’ve always envisioned Neshama as hard hikes and sun beaming down and experiential learning and crazy adventures and that was all packed into today. 

   

  We first had solid Israeli breakfast and headed to our first destination: Har HaTzofim. With an incredible view of the west side of Jerusalem (and even Jordan in the distance) along with Marissa’s balancing skills to hold the shape of Israel with her body, we reviewed the geography of the land. Next, Rob was really embracing his role of tour guide— guiding us to look out the left or right windows on the way to Har HaZeitim. Especially after our modern Israel class last semester, it was really incredible to see with my own eyes the West Bank out one window and East Jerusalem right across from the other window. We learned about the sanctity of this place to the Jews and the even deeper connection Christian tradition has with the place. We then walked down a crazy steep hill (that the whole time I was praying we would not have to walk back up) and visited beautiful churches filled with mosaics and gold and paintings and views of Jerusalem from every seat. I had never been in a church before then and I appreciated the tradition Rob taught us to say the shema before entering. Some Jews feel it is forbidden to even enter a church, but Rob explained the rabbis didn’t want Jews to be swayed or influenced by Christian ideals. Therefore, by saying the shema to ourselves we are reaffirming our Jewish identities and reminding ourselves of the strictly educational purpose of this visit. In one Greek Orthodox Christian church, I couldn’t help but stare at a rock Christians believed was where Mary (Jesus’s mother) passed and was laied to rest. I hate to say it, but I was a bit judgmental at first. I questioned how these people could line up for hours in line waiting to pray and leave notes to a rock! And then I realized…uh the kotel!?? We literally do the same thing! I had a moment of awareness; I was so quick to judge these foreign beliefs, and I wondered what other religions thought of us! For the rest of the day, I never thought like that again and put everything in perspective and actually found all these places that Jesus crossed path with that have therefore become something incredibly holy the most interesting part of these churches. People wait their whole lives to visit these sites so who am I to judge? We also went into this cool cave/burial site with thousand-year-old graves. We had to use candles for our only source of light (very down to earth I know!) 

   

  Before I move on, I want acknowledging Robs true gift of making people listen. I never thought I would be at these beautiful sights and on unimaginable adventures and be awe-struck by the source sheet in my hand. Unfortunately, I can’t go into it all in this entry, but I feel that I absorbed literally everything he said. Not only did I think it was interesting, but it was immensely important to me to listen. Soon, all of us are going off to college or gap years and wherever life takes us thereafter and will essentially “pop” our little Jewish bubble. Being educated on all people and religions of the world is imperative in forming informed opinions and making our way through interactions.

   

  Aside from this more “textbook” learning, we had great opportunities for experiential learning! What is now most people’s new highlight of the trip, the water tunnels were a crazy tightly packed echo-y and dark adventure we embarked on together. We learned the history of the city of David and how they used water tunnels to transfer water around the mountain as protection. We then walked 40 minutes in a narrow and dark tunnel taking pictures, vlogging, laughing, and obviously singing everything from Adele to Ani VeAta. And to end off the day, we got a 2 hour pizzur on Ben Yehuda street!!!

• Monday, February 24

  Daniella:

  February 24, 2025, marks our first day in Israel! We landed at 2:00 AM, and although it was very late, we were all filled with excitement as our journey continued to grow. This morning, we took time to settle into Agron, exploring the hostel, organizing our suitcase situations, and enjoying a delicious lunch. Afterward, we visited Har Herzl, where we paid our respects at the grave of Theodor Herzl, a prominent Zionist, and continued on to the graves of other famous Jewish leaders. Visiting these graves was deeply meaningful, as we stood in the presence of those who helped establish Israel as a recognized country.

   

  At Har Herzl, there are also many graves dedicated to IDF soldiers who were killed in combat on and after October 7th, 2023. We had the opportunity to walk around and reflect at the graves, which was an emotional experience, but we were grateful to honor the soldiers who gave their lives to defend Israel. Our fellow student, Rose Berman, shared the story of Rose Lublin, an IDF soldier who tragically lost her life in a terror attack on November 6th, 2023, while protecting a police station. Rose Lublin, a lone soldier, was deeply committed to fighting for the innocent and for the State of Israel. She was highly respected within her community, and her loss, along with that of every soldier, was profoundly heartbreaking.

   

  After visiting Har Herzl, we walked to Beit HaKerem, where we had time to reflect on everything, we had seen at Har Herzl, buy toiletries, and enjoy some Israeli food! Once we finished, we returned to Agron, where we were treated to a wonderful dinner prepared by the amazing staff. To cap off the night, we participated in a grade bonding activity led by our madrichim. During this activity, we were given white socks and used colored markers to write down our hopes and goals for the duration of Neshama. We then shared our hopes and goals with one another, which sparked a great discussion.

   

  Today was a day filled with all kinds of emotions, and we are so grateful to finally be in the most beautiful country, Israel.

• Saturday, February 22

  Marissa:

   

  Today, Neshama enjoyed our last day in Poland! We’re really excited to finally be heading to Israel, but before our flight, we had a great final day. The morning started off nicely because we all got to “sleep in” (breakfast wasn’t until 8:30!). We spent the morning walking around Krakow, and our first stop was the Umshalgplatz, right across from our hotel. The Umshalgplatz is a Holocaust memorial, a large square filled with empty chairs arranged in a way that encourages deep reflection. The square marks the place where the Jews of Krakow were rounded up and kept to be sent to concentration camps or death camps. We took some time to discuss what the memorial might represent, and many people shared their own interesting interpretations. After that, we each found a quiet spot around the area to write letters to our future selves, thinking about what we most want to remember from our time in Poland. This was especially meaningful for me because it felt good to put into words the most impactful moments of this trip, moments I’ll carry with me forever. It also felt like the perfect way to bring some closure to a week filled with powerful and intense emotions.

   

  After our visit to the Umshalgplatz, we continued walking around Krakow and stopped by Koby’s grandmother’s house, where he told us about his family’s connection to the Shoah. We also heard some powerful stories from three more Neshamaniks—Noa, Mia, and Cayla—who each shared fascinating and inspiring family histories. By the time we wrapped up, it was already lunchtime! We had our first Pizur meal of the trip and had a little over an hour to explore and grab lunch in Kazimierz. It was a charming area, with lots of shops selling clothes and jewelry, kind of like a shuk. A few friends and I grabbed lunch at a cute local restaurant, where we tried three different flavors of pierogi, some pasta, and salad. The potato and cheese pierogi were my favorite, and it was nice to try some local food.

   

  After lunch, we hopped on the bus for a four-hour drive to Warsaw, picking up our second suitcase for Israel along the way. Our flight takes off late tonight, and everyone’s buzzing with excitement to get to Israel! We had a great day, and we can’t wait to arrive and start the next part of our journey!

• Friday, February 21

  Austin:

  Yesterday, we began as usual at breakfast, packing boxed lunch for the day. We then cleaned up breakfast and loaded up the bus for a 90-minute car ride to Oświęcim, the town that Auschwitz was named after by the Germans. 

   

  After arriving at the camp, we entered through the Polish Security Checkpoint. We then received audio devices connected to microphones operated by the museum tour guides, Magda and Mauricz.

   

  Auschwitz first opened at the beginning of the Second World War to serve as a prison camp for Polish prisoners and political dissidents. It was not until the Wannsee Conference that the camp was converted into an extermination center for Jews. 

   

  Due to the evolution of the camp's functions, the buildings were extremely diverse in architecture. The Nazis also modified several existing buildings to suit their evolving needs. For example, Auschwitz I contained one gas chamber that was converted towards the end of the war to a bomb shelter.
  
  

  Some of the administrative buildings have been turned into museum exhibits. One such building that we were in contained several photographs of the camp taken by a prisoner detailing the day-to-day operations. It also contained several historical artifacts, such as stolen shoes, locks of hair, suitcases, Tallisim, etc. 

   

  We stayed there for about two hours and then took a break for lunch. After lunch, we drove for about five minutes to Auschwitz II – Birkenau. In 1941, the Polish Government in Exile wrote, "the Auschwitz concentration camp ...can accommodate approximately 7,000 prisoners at present, and is to be rebuilt to hold approximately 30,000."

   

  Although much of the camp was either destroyed by the Nazis covering evidence, nearby Poles scrounging materials, or revolting acts of Judaic heroism, we were still able to see the trains' entry gate and the selection platform.

   

  The group gathered around at various points along the tour path so that some students could share family stories in connection with the site. Six students presented about Jews who were murdered or died Al Kiddush Hashem , from Greece all the way to the Polish-Russian border. 

   

  At the conclusion of the tour, we held a brief ceremony honoring those who perished at Auschwitz. Each student also had the opportunity to name any relative who perished at the hand of the Third Reich before the memorial prayer (El Maleh Rachamim), which I read, noting my Great-Grand Uncle Nathan Kohn, who died in a Displaced Persons Camp in the days following liberation by the Soviets. 

        
  We arrived back in Krakow 20 minutes before candle lighting, and all changed into nicer attire. From there the group walked to "The Temple", a synagogue dating back to 1862. A common misconception was that it was a Reform Congregation. Although it coexisted with the early Reform movement, it was a traditional Shul with separate seating and a full Matbeah. One suggestion I heard from a Krakow community leader was that it was because the Rabbi was fairly progressive in his opinions. 

   

  Interestingly on 1920, he preached on the first Shabbat after Simchas Torah that he was of the opinion that in 20 years, waves of antisemitism would persecute the Jewish people and that the Balfour Declaration was a step in the right direction.  

   

  Shabbos davening was the perfect pick-me-up. GOA combined with Gann Academy of Greater Boston, as well as other school and young-professional trips. We also ran into Max Bruch, Golda Och Academy Class of 2016. Kabbalat Shabbat brought forth the experience of dancing together as one nation, regardless of origin. Horas and Kongo-Lines were a highlight. 

   

  Dinner was held at the Krakow JCC. We had the opportunity to hear from the Director, Jonathan Ornstein, a fellow NY-Metro native, who explained the JCC's roles and functions. We actually dined in a room that collected food for the Ukrainian refugees, over 90% of whom are not Jewish.

   

   

  After today's breakfast, we had Davening at the Remuh Synagogue, Rav Moshe Isserles' own Shul. Once again, we were joined by several other visiting students and young professionals touring Krakow. Ari Jacobs received the fourth Aliyah, and I was asked to open the ark during the Torah Service.  

   

  In the early afternoon, we had the opportunity to hear from Christina Ludmila-Kril, the daughter of a Righteous Gentile. She told us her mother's story and brought honors she received from Yad Vashem and various governments. It was very moving to hear about upstanders who supported our people during a time of adversity.

   

  We concluded Shabbat with a group conversation on Theodicy. Rabbi Nevins gave a brief introduction and discussed various opinions about where God was in the Holocaust. To have more shared voices, we broke into four smaller groups. We also discussed the balance between divine providence and human free will as explanations for man-made tragedies.  

   

  Well, Havdalah just concluded, and I have a lot of packing ahead of me as the rest of Neshamah travels to Jerusalem and I return to New Jersey to begin my internship—more on that in future blog posts. 

• Thursday, February 20

  Jesse:

   

  This morning, we took a short walk from our hotel in Łańcut to the Łańcut synagogue. There we met with Mirik, a Christian man who has preserved the synagogue, learned Hebrew, and studies Torah. This synagogue and greater Łańcut area were home to a vibrant Jewish community. A community and synagogue which after hundreds of years of meaningful and powerful prayer, went silent. Rob has told us a recurring idea each synagogue we visit. He helps us focus on the walls of the synagogue. Walls that haven’t heard prayer in so long. Each time we daven shacharit in these synagogues, it feels like a small revival of a lost community. Rob likes us to think what the walls might feel or how much they may have missed heartful prayer. 

   

  From there, we visited the pretty town of Tarnow, another once large Jewish town. A town whose synagogue was burnt to the ground and whose people were senselessly murdered in there homes, rounded up, and sent to their deaths.

   

  A short drive away from Tarnow is Zbylitowska Góra, the mass grave of Children. When the Nazis entered Tarnow, they brought those who weren’t killed on the spot to the Forrest and murdered them in mass graves. This was one of the hardest parts of the trip, the site of the murder of Tarnow’s children, representing the 1.5 million children killed in the holocaust. The potential of 1.5 million lives taken away. Rob brought attention to history repeating itself. This same day we visit the children’s graves, the Bibas baby’s, Kfir and Ariel, return to Israel in caskets. 80 years later, Jewish baby’s are still being murdered for simply being Jewish.

   

  After shacharit this morning, Rob asked us, through four days in Poland, what emotions we were feeling. Here is my answer: 

   

  I have felt a lot of anger in these past few days. We are exposed to this overwhelming amount of pain and death, and yet I feel hopelessly distant. I can’t help but keep thinking about a stolen potential. The potential of 6 million lives, hundreds of thousands of Jewish communities, and thousands of synagogues burned to the ground. These feeling of anger and despair have slowly turned to strength, resilience, and hope. For all of those who were silenced as a result of the Shoah, I want to dedicate a part of my life to them by strengthening my Judaism. These few days in Poland have been the best davening of my life. I have tried to wrap tefillin each day and all around be more passionate about my Judaism. As I look to college, I want to be proudly and publicly Jewish and I want to share the stories the we learned here in Poland about the Shoah, keeping a part of the 6 million souls alive.

   

  The rest of the day was much lighter than at the beginning. We got to Krakow at around 5 and had some free time to make a dent in the city's pierogi supply. Afterwards, we had second dinner and headed to the hotel for an early night in anticipation of tomorrow’s early morning.

• Wednesday, February 19

  Noga:

   

  Today was a very meaningful and emotional day on Neshama. We started our morning heading from the hotel to Yeshivat Lublin, which has been beautifully restored after the Nazis burned over 20,000 books. Standing in that sacred space, we learned about Rabbi Meir Shapiro, who passed away before the Holocaust but left behind the tradition of "Daf Yomi," a daily practice of studying one page of Gemara, spanning 2,711 pages over seven and a half years. Though he didn’t live to see the war, his teachings lived on. Many of his students, however, were tragically taken to Majdanek—our next stop of the day.

   

  A short bus ride brought us to the entrance of Majdanek, where we spent four heavy and meaningful hours learning about our people’s tragic history. It’s difficult to put into words what it feels like to enter an extermination camp. The air was suddenly colder, and a light snowfall accompanied our first steps onto the rocky path. It was as if the place itself carried the weight of its past.

   

  Walking through the gas chambers, we saw the dark blue stains of Zyclon B gas still tainting the walls and the rusted showerheads hanging from the ceiling. We continued through the crematorium, the barracks, and other preserved structures, reading testimonies of those who endured unimaginable horrors. One story that stuck with me was that of Halina Birenbaum, who was only 14 when she arrived. Her mother was torn from her upon arrival, and her sister-in-law became the only person left to look after her. Halina would pick weeds under barbed wire—risking electrocution—just to avoid interactions with Nazi guards, a small glimpse into the overwhelming fear that consumed every prisoner. The sadness and eeriness of Majdanek were raw and palpable, resonating deeply with all of us.

   

  We paused to listen to Josh's family story, which made the experience even more personal and emotional. His words reminded us of the importance of remembrance and connection to our own Jewish identities.

   

  One quote in the museum stayed with me: Piotr Kiriszczenko wrote, "You wake up in the morning, you wake your mate, and he is dead—but you are not afraid of the corpse." That level of suffering, that emotional numbness, is something I can’t even begin to comprehend. This morning, I woke up and saw Emily, alive and well, and I was struck by the sheer privilege of not having to fear for my friends’ lives. It’s hard to fathom a world where that wasn’t the case.

   

  After circling Majdanek, we got back on the bus and headed to the grave and memorial of Rebbe Elimelech. There, we had an important discussion about Haredim, Hasidim, and the various sects of Judaism, reflecting on how the ultra-Orthodox movement had to rebuild itself after the Holocaust. We learned how Rebbe Elimelech helped guide lost Jews and played a role in the rebirth of modern Judaism. To honor his legacy, we held a small tish, eating Israeli snacks, singing songs, and celebrating our connection to Jewish tradition. As we boarded the bus, the singing continued—though the playlist took a turn to Bruno Mars, Adele, and Rihanna, bringing some lightness to the heavy emotions of the day.

   

  Our final stop was a breathtaking glass memorial honoring The Righteous Among the Nations—the brave Polish people who risked or gave their lives to save Jews during the Holocaust at the Ulma Family Museum of Poles Saving Jews in WWII. We listened to Jordyn’s touching family story and reflected on the role these individuals played in history. Seeing the glowing names of those courageous souls reminded us that even in the darkest times, there were those who chose to stand up for what was right.

   

  As we arrived at our third hotel of the trip (in the city of Lancut), we ate dinner and reflected on the day during zman mishpacha. Words like “hell” and “horrifying” were used to describe the conditions in Majdanek, and moments like seeing the heaps of shoes and cramped sleeping situation stuck with us the most. As we processed our emotions in our little “family”, we established the importance of remembrance, and connection. It reinforced the weight of our history and our responsibility to carry it forward. More than anything, it was a reminder that while we mourn the past, we also embrace the strength, resilience, and unwavering spirit of our people.

   

  Before we went to sleep, we spent time as a grade and got to know our madrichim better, forming a strong bond and sense of trust to continue to share difficult, profound feelings.

• Tuesday, February 18

  Shayne:

   

  Today was a long, busy day. At our Zman Mishpacha meeting at the end of the day, we talked a bit about how sometimes temporarily focusing on a smaller, more specific part of a massive tragedy can help you process it, and so I’m going to focus on music as a common thread.

   

  We started our day bright and early at 7:00 AM for breakfast at our Warsaw hotel, before driving two hours northeast to the town of Tykocin.

   

  Tykocin was once the site of a thriving Jewish community, and in 1642 they constructed a beautiful synagogue, with fortress-like walls several feet thick and a colorful ceiling and central frieze above the ark. Wealthy community members who had donated to the synagogue were honored with prayers, possibly of their own choosing, brightly painted onto the stucco walls inside the main sanctuary. I kid you not when I say that this was the most beautiful synagogue, I’ve ever been in. During our orientation day on Friday, we were asked where we felt most spiritual, and I answered that I don’t connect with most synagogue buildings; I typically feel much more inspired in places of nature, old cemeteries, ruins, even cathedrals and mosques. This synagogue, however, was unlike any I had ever seen. 

   

  Aly and I led a joyous Tefillah service (much less rushed this time!), and at Jesse’s request we sang Mah Tovu, which we probably have not sung as a full grade since fifth grade. We also sang Psalm 29 (Mizmor LeDavid, Havu LAdonai…) and danced the hora between the botanical patterns and Hebrew texts painted in bright blues and oranges and reds along the walls. 

   

  Those walls do not hear prayers anymore, except for when tour groups like us visit. There are no Jews left in Tykocin. In 1941, when the Nazis reconquered the village during Operation Barbarossa, the entire Jewish community of Tykocin was marched out to the Łopuchowo forest and shot beside large pits. Still in the synagogue, Katriela shared her family’s story from the shtetl of Radzilova, where, emboldened by the Nazis but fueled by long-standing antisemitism, local Poles forced all of the Jews into a barn and set it on fire. After a short visit to the poorly-maintained old Jewish cemetery, whose graves are mostly toppled and covered in grasses, we rode to the site of the death pits. We read the words of a woman who had survived a similar slaughter in another village, and who lived to testify at Adolf Eichmann’s trial in Jerusalem in 1961. 

   

  We also had Noga share her family’s story from Łódź, and Aly talked about how her family survived by hiding in the forested mountains with a partisan cell. Our madrichah Shakked, inspired by Aly’s story, shared the English lyrics of Bella Ciao, an Italian song sung by a partisan to the Nazis, telling her to bury him in the mountains if the Nazis kill him and continue the fight for freedom. 

   

  After Tykocin, we drove an hour and a half to Treblinka. We first watched a short film in the small museum describing the layout and operation of the death camp: how it was disguised as a transit camp with a mock railway station and infirmary tent to avoid mass panic, how dogs and soldiers chased the naked Jews as they walked along the “Road to Heaven” gauntlet, how at least 850,000 people were murdered there. The Nazis razed the entire camp in 1943 to hide the evidence of their crimes, so all that stands today are memorials and stone markers denoting where guard towers and train tracks once stood. On the walk to the main memorial, Solomon told us about how his Polish great-grandfather escaped to France and managed to survive there, and Maya told us about how her great-great-grandparents were slaughtered at Babi Yar, a ravine near Kyiv, after surviving the first selection. She further explained how the Soviet authorities refused to acknowledge the Judaism of Babi Yar’s victims, and how a Russian rocket damaged the memorial site in 2022 during the ongoing War in Ukraine.

   

  Rob also told us the story of how a Modzitzer Chasid, a sect known for their niggunim and songs, invented the popular melody to Ani Ma’amin while in a cattle car en route to Treblinka, and we sang the eery hymn as we walked to the main Treblinka memorial. The memorial features hundreds of upright stones, representing various Jewish communities destroyed at the death camp, with the exception of a single stone dedicated to the educator Janusz Korczak, who bravely marched to the death with the children of his orphanage despite being offered a chance to escape. In the center stands a tall stone monument, with bas-reliefs depicting Jews packed into the gas chambers, as well as a menorah on the back. I shared the story of my great-great-aunt Chaja Sura, who was murdered at Treblinka alongside her husband and five of her eight children, as well as the story of her son Moishe, who survived seven concentration camps and whose own son is the famous rock musician Geddy Lee. After strolling between the markers on our own for a few minutes, we gathered for our memorial ceremony, where Itai’s mishpacha read poems and prayers, holding Israeli flags. 

   

  Before reciting the Mourners’ Kaddish together, we sang the song Eli, Eli, written by Hannah Szenes, a Hungarian Jew who had made Aliyah but who returned as a paratrooper to support Jews in Nazi-occupied Europe, before being captured and executed by Nazis. The song describes her hope that even as humans do great evil to each other, that the beauty of the natural world is never destroyed:
  
  

  My God, my God,

  may it never end –

  the sand and the sea,

  the rustle of the water,

  the lightning of the sky,

  the prayer of man.
  
  

  I found this song strangely fitting: throughout our visit to Treblinka, flurries of snow sporadically fell from the sky, which was colored gold by one of the most vivid sunsets I have ever seen. 

   

  After leaving Treblinka, we drove three hours to Lublin, where we had dinner (much better than I expected!) and Zman Mishpacha. When we entered the city, the bus speakers began to play Bella Ciao again, and I thought about how even though over 850,000 souls of our people were murdered at Treblinka, we survived. We could still dance the hora to David’s psalm in ancient synagogues; we proclaimed our continued belief with Ani Ma’amin; we witnessed the juxtaposition of mass murder with a beautifully snowy sunset as we sang Eli, Eli; and with Bella Ciao, we expressed our dedication to freedom and the constant resistance that is Jewish life.

• Monday, February 17

  Noam:

   

  First Day:

  Our journey began yesterday when we arrived at school alongside our parents, we came together in the Lower Schol Beit Knesset for a short sendoff tekes, and saying our final goodbyes before embarking on our three-month trip. As our parents departed, we took a moment to wish our classmate Noa a happy 18th birthday, with delicious cupcakes provided by her family.
  
  

  Following this, our grade gathered in our designated classroom, where we reviewed the historical context leading up to the Holocaust and the persecution of Jews. This session provided essential background knowledge before our upcoming visit to Poland. We explored various geographical locations where persecution occurred and examined the differences in the number of murders across different countries. One point that stood out to me was that, despite Germany being a central hub of Holocaust atrocities, it was not the country with the highest number of Jewish deaths.
  
  

  We also engaged in a thoughtful and meaningful discussion about the roots of antisemitism, which particularly resonated with me. After this lesson, we had lunch, which gave us a chance to relax and connect as a grade.
  
  

  Following lunch, we reviewed the expectations and rules for our Neshama trip and had the opportunity to ask any remaining questions. As a group, we discussed what aspects of the trip we were most excited about. These conversations strengthened our sense of community and helped us recognize new elements of the journey to look forward to.
  
  

  Before we knew it, it was time to head to the airport. After the long process of passing through security, checking our bags, and boarding the plane, we finally settled in for the nine-hour flight.

  Upon landing in Poland, we picked up our bags and, despite feeling tired, were excited to meet our four new madrichim: Itay, Ravid, Shakked, and Yuval.
  
  

  Our first destination in Poland was the Warsaw Jewish Cemetery, where we visited several significant memorials. The first was the grave of Dr. Ludwik Zamenhof, the creator of the Esperanto language. The second was a memorial honoring Y.L. Peretz, a renowned Yiddish writer. Some of our classmates had taken a modern Jewish literature course the previous year, where they studied Peretz’s short stories, allowing them to connect their learning to our visit.
  
  

  After visiting a few more sites, we visited the Nozyk Synagogue where we davened Ma'ariv. Following the service, we had dinner and concluded the evening by meeting in our mishpacha (family) groups, led by our madrichim.
  
  

  Overall, the first two days of our journey were a period of transition, helping us set the foundation for the next three months. We gained a deeper understanding of expectations, bonded with our madrichim, and began adjusting to the balance of traveling and visiting significant historical sites.